The Fashion Informer

Fall 2012 Preview: Nonoo

What inspired you for Fall 2012? 
This season pays homage to French cinematic legend Anouk Aimee and Francoise Sagan's Bonjour Tristesse.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Color and fabric is rich in tone, refined in texture and shaped to form.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Beirut.

What do you look for when casting your show?
Pretty girls.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Try to get at least six hours sleep when possible.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Givenchy and Celine.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Prepare for Paris!

Misha Nonoo will present her fall 2012 Nonoo  collection on Friday, February 10th at The Highline room at The Standard Hotel.

Fall 2012 Preview: BCBGMAXAZRIA and Herve Leger

What inspired you for Fall 2012?
For BCBGMAXAZRIA runway: Bauhaus. For Herve Léger by Max Azria: Restraint, seduction and control.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Hue, space and light create a composed palette, manifesting an architectural aesthetic.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
A little Eighties. A little reggae.

What do you look for when casting your shows?
Confidence, individuality and chic.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
For me, staying energized is vital, so I eat a lot of raw food and (of course) drink way too much caffeine!

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I am a big admirer of Rei Kawakubo’s work. I’m always excited to see what she shows.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Hop on the plane, fly back to Los Angeles and see my babies! Then, maybe a little trip to the Korean spa.

Lubov Azria, BCBGMAXAZRIA’s Chief Creative Officer, will show the fall 2012 BCBG collection on Thursday, February 9th at The Theater at Lincoln Center and the fall Herve Leger collection on Saturday, February 11th at The Theater at Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: Duckie Brown

What inspired you for fall 2012?
We are always inspired by our hearts—and the lives we lead and what we see every day.  

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Lots of Harris tweeds and plaids.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
New Order.

What do you look for when casting your show?
Beautiful men.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Swim, run, work out with our trainer John Henry and Gryotonics.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Looking forward to seeing all the shows—always interesting to see what others are feeling.  

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Go to the Florida Keys with Daniel's 88-year-old father.

Daniel Silver and Steven Cox will show their Duckie Brown fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at Industria Superstudio.

Fall 2012 Preview: Kimberly Ovitz

What inspired you for fall 2012? 
The concept of the warrior—specifically, the warrior's attributes of vitality, perseverance and vigor.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Deep tones of color and powerful, structured silhouettes of the collection contrasted with the elegant, soft draping pay homage to the inner ideology of the tribal combatant.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Lorn, Angus & Julia Stone, Jay-Z/Kanye West.

What do you look for when casting your show?
Strong attitude and walk.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Taking time to run every day.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
All of the men's collections, especially Damir Doma.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week? 
Sleep.

Kimberly Ovitz will show her fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at The Pace Gallery.

2012 Fall Preview: Dominic Louis

What inspired you for fall 2012?
I have always enjoyed the idea of something that is very opposite and combining different attributes to create something new. This season I wanted to take something that was normally considered fairly dark and turn it into something beautiful.  Hence our concept "I AM."  I was inspired by different individuals that surround me that have a story behind a certain human insecurity. Bringing such a broad concept to life took some thought so I collaborated with local photographer Zach Gold and shot a series of portraits to convey this strong message that we would then base the collection on.  It is entitled "A Study of Human Insecurity." These images will also debut with our FW 12 collection this coming fashion week.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Because a lot of these human insecurities lend themselves to physical attributes of the subjects the color story ended up lending itself to something that was very much based on anatomy.  We are using warm grays, reds and burnt hues of brown to break up the main base of black that represents the dark meaning of the clothes. The beauty is found in the extreme combinations of texture and more tailored and handmade construction of so many of the pieces.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Holy Other, Balam Acab, and that new Lana Del Ray song Born to Die.

What do you look for when casting your show? 
Now that we're doing full-on womens, it's about representing still the unisex identity of the collection.  I want to show extreme masculinity along with very soft femininity and, of course, those that sort of blur the line in an ethereal way.  

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
As the rack grows I find my energy in seeing the looks come together.  Seeing pieces being finished and getting to share what our vision for the coming debut is. I like to surround myself with friends and colleagues in the work space for dinner and discussion and get their feedback and reflect on life outside of fashion while never leaving our think tank. Because as it gets closer I really never leave.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Threeasfour, Rad Hourani and Marchesa.  I know that seams to be a weird lineup but I don't make many shows anymore, so if I'm going to go to a few I'd like to see something very diverse in each one.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Start working on spring!

Louis Mairone will present the Dominic Louis  fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at upstairs Terrace of The Bowery Hotel.

Fall 2012 Preview: Tadashi Shoji

 
What inspired you for Fall 2012?
The Golden Age of Shanghai. 

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Both the colors and fabrics are rich and opulent.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Silence. 

What do you look for when casting your show/presentation?
Poise, personality, and a good walk. 

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Yoga.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I unfortunately never have the time to see the other shows.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Spending time in my Pasadena, California home.

Tadashi Shoji will show his fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at The Stage in Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: M.Patmos

 
What inspired you for Fall 2012?
My inspiration began with a trip to the Pacific Northwest section of Powell's bookstore in Portland, Oregon when visiting in the spring. The book The Women by Edward S. Curtis features portraits of Native American women from the early 1900s. The women are wearing strikingly modern outfits, mixing plaid trading blankets over traditionally beaded and embellished textiles. The mixing of natural materials is graphic, textural and impactful. 

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
I have many new mixes of fabric, texture, yarn and color that play out in new versions of classic M.Patmos styles, as well as shapes inspired by the idea. 

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Sometimes I am really happy with silence, but I was also listening to Bon Iver and Cotton Jones.

What do you look for when casting your show/presentation?
A mix of women who are strong, have  good presence and look great in the clothing.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?Yoga and green juice.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I love seeing what my friends are doing, as well as the ones I love to look at: A Detacher, Tess Giberson, Maria Cornejo, Thakoon, Celine, Stella McCartney, Marni...

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
I haven't had time to plan but thinking hot weather and beach—maybe Costa Rica?

Marcia Patmos will present the M.Patmos fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at Milk Studios.

Fall 2012 Preview: Lauren Moffatt

 
What inspired you for fall 2012?
Charm. Tongue-in-cheek irony. Classicness. All wrapped up in a school girl.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Our color palette and materials are classic , but the shapes and details add a bit of an ironic twist. This juxtaposition is the common thread throughout our fall collection.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
WFUV 90.7.

What do you look for when casting your show?
We look for girls who are natural and have that wide-eyed quality.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW? 
Adrenalin.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week? 
I’d be happy to just sleep past 7am.

Lauren Moffatt will present her fall 2012 collection on Wednesday, February 8th at at The Old School.

Fall 2012 Preview: Daniel Vosovic

 
What inspired you for fall 2012? 
The AW12 collection is actually quite personal for me, more so than usual. I had the luxury of spending some extended time at my childhood home this fall and the time away from the city made me quite nostalgic for all the great memories I had seemingly forgotten over the years. Visions of playing hooky from gym class in high school, driving around at 2am on hot summer nights with friends, lying in the back of my friend’s SUV on rainy nights with the back hatch propped open as the interior windows coated over with fog. Ultimately, the whole experience consumed me and I began using these memories from my past as a catalyst for the collection. 

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes? 
Youthful, slim-yet-slouchy silhouette. Feminine with tomboy elements.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection? 
Lana Del Rey’s Blue Jeans was on constant repeat at the studio (much to the chagrin of the interns after the second month). I find her voice equally nostalgic and new, but most of all, intriguing.

What do you look for when casting your show? 
Attitude and eyebrows—both have to be strong.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW? 
I follow a very strict regime of morning cappuccinos (they’re healthy because of the… the foam, yeah!) and homemade Spanish dishes that my amazing seamstress Celia brings in for me because she’s an amazing mother and thinks I don’t eat enough (seriously, I would be dead if it wasn’t for her cooking). Mentally, I make every effort in the world to make my weekly Wednesday “TV night” with seven of my friends in Nolita; everyone works insane hours in various industries (mostly fashion) but it’s a great way to keep perspective on your life. Taking four hours a week to schedule in time for your loved ones isn’t very much to ask, and although it primarily consists of us taking an hour to decide where we’re going to order food from, complaining that E! Fashion Police have no freaking clue what they’re talking about, and sharing bad dating stories from that week… it’s great and I’m very grateful for it.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season? 
I’ve always enjoyed Christopher Kane’s work, as well as many of the young London designers.  I think they’ve all ratcheted up their efforts and have been producing some very exciting work.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week? 
In an ideal world, my boyfriend and I will head to Tulum, where our friend just opened a gorgeous new restaurant/retreat and has promised to treat us like kings. 

Where will your show be held this season? 
We’re hosting individual private appointments this season. It’s proven to be extremely beneficial in building relationships with both editors and buyers, and giving them the opportunity to ask the questions that they don’t have the chance to ask at a show. It also allows me to share a bit more about our individual process and the story behind it. For example, we photograph all of our own digital prints each season. Last season’s big story includes taking a few days in the bayou outside of New Orleans, spending hours on one of those fan/boat things driving through the swamp photographing bloated old shanty houses in stagnant water. I brought back the print of this crackling, peeling paint, cleaned it up, made it repeatable, printed it on the finest silks and it became our most popular print to-date. That story would never be fully read on show notes.

Daniel Vosovic will present his fall 2012 collection via private appointments during Fashion Week.

Fall 2012 Preview: John Bartlett

What inspired you for fall 2012?
For fall 2012 I received a grant from Lexus to develop a sustainable, eco-freindly collection. Therefore, I looked to nature and developed a fantasy of guys living off the grid in some kind of "future-rustic" universe.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Lots of organic shapes in either plant-based organic cottons or recycled microfiber ultra suedes. I also used some upcycled/repurposed wool.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Dead Can Dance, This Mortal Coil and Gang of Four.

What do you look for when casting your show?
I am looking for very individualistic models who do not easily fit into the All-American norm. I have certain types specifically that I am looking for this season and am excited about finding some new interesting faces.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
I started back in january with a full-on yoga schedule which makes me totally chill and also helps me focus my attention.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Doo.Ri, VPL, Cynthia Rowley.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
I will be celebrating my hubby John Esty's birthday the next day and going to yoga at Jivamukti, my favorite yoga haunt.

John Bartlett will present his fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at Milk Studios.