The Fashion Informer

Fall 2012 Preview: Katya Leonovich

What inspired you for fall 2012?
My inspiration was the architecture of New York City. I would paint these buildings and many of my friends would ask me if I was painting the architecture of Paris, or of Rome! I think New York City is all about being the crossroads of the world. 

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
My shapes came out very architectural. Also, the colors of the stones of the buildings evoke winter for me. The metal details inspired me to use metallic fabrics and heavy wool.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
While designing this collection I was listening to music of the 1930's and '40s. Mostly European songs and blues. 

What do you look for when casting your show/presentation?
I look for models who look like they could wear the clothes anywhere. In the city, in the country, at a party, on the street. 

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
I paint to keep my soul fresh.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I will check up on my favorite labels like Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
I plan to spend time with my family.

Katya Leonovich will present her fall 2012 collection on Friday, February 10th at The Box at Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: Kate Spade New York

What inspired you for Fall 2012? 
Gamine French girls out and about in Paris.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes? 
An exciting mix of neutrals and brights mixed together in unexpected ways. The result is graphic yet whimsical.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection? 
Blondie – Parallel Lines.

What do you look for when casting your presentation? 
I look for girls who have a sweetness, but also an edge. Not just the pretty girl next door – they have to have personality.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW? 
I have an amazing team that keeps me focused and we have fun doing what we love.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season? 
Marc Jacobs, Prada, Carven, Marni.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week? 
I wish! I will sneak a weekend upstate with my husband and dogs. I have a new puppy named Stanley, so I don’t know how relaxing that will be!

Deborah Lloyd, president and creative director, will present the fall 2012 Kate Spade New York collection on Friday, February 10th at the Helen Mills Theatre.

Fall 2012 Preview: Nonoo

What inspired you for Fall 2012? 
This season pays homage to French cinematic legend Anouk Aimee and Francoise Sagan's Bonjour Tristesse.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Color and fabric is rich in tone, refined in texture and shaped to form.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Beirut.

What do you look for when casting your show?
Pretty girls.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Try to get at least six hours sleep when possible.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Givenchy and Celine.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Prepare for Paris!

Misha Nonoo will present her fall 2012 Nonoo  collection on Friday, February 10th at The Highline room at The Standard Hotel.

Fall 2012 Preview: BCBGMAXAZRIA and Herve Leger

What inspired you for Fall 2012?
For BCBGMAXAZRIA runway: Bauhaus. For Herve Léger by Max Azria: Restraint, seduction and control.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Hue, space and light create a composed palette, manifesting an architectural aesthetic.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
A little Eighties. A little reggae.

What do you look for when casting your shows?
Confidence, individuality and chic.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
For me, staying energized is vital, so I eat a lot of raw food and (of course) drink way too much caffeine!

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I am a big admirer of Rei Kawakubo’s work. I’m always excited to see what she shows.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Hop on the plane, fly back to Los Angeles and see my babies! Then, maybe a little trip to the Korean spa.

Lubov Azria, BCBGMAXAZRIA’s Chief Creative Officer, will show the fall 2012 BCBG collection on Thursday, February 9th at The Theater at Lincoln Center and the fall Herve Leger collection on Saturday, February 11th at The Theater at Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: Duckie Brown

What inspired you for fall 2012?
We are always inspired by our hearts—and the lives we lead and what we see every day.  

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Lots of Harris tweeds and plaids.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
New Order.

What do you look for when casting your show?
Beautiful men.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Swim, run, work out with our trainer John Henry and Gryotonics.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Looking forward to seeing all the shows—always interesting to see what others are feeling.  

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Go to the Florida Keys with Daniel's 88-year-old father.

Daniel Silver and Steven Cox will show their Duckie Brown fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at Industria Superstudio.

Fall 2012 Preview: Kimberly Ovitz

What inspired you for fall 2012? 
The concept of the warrior—specifically, the warrior's attributes of vitality, perseverance and vigor.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Deep tones of color and powerful, structured silhouettes of the collection contrasted with the elegant, soft draping pay homage to the inner ideology of the tribal combatant.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Lorn, Angus & Julia Stone, Jay-Z/Kanye West.

What do you look for when casting your show?
Strong attitude and walk.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Taking time to run every day.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
All of the men's collections, especially Damir Doma.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week? 
Sleep.

Kimberly Ovitz will show her fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at The Pace Gallery.

2012 Fall Preview: Dominic Louis

What inspired you for fall 2012?
I have always enjoyed the idea of something that is very opposite and combining different attributes to create something new. This season I wanted to take something that was normally considered fairly dark and turn it into something beautiful.  Hence our concept "I AM."  I was inspired by different individuals that surround me that have a story behind a certain human insecurity. Bringing such a broad concept to life took some thought so I collaborated with local photographer Zach Gold and shot a series of portraits to convey this strong message that we would then base the collection on.  It is entitled "A Study of Human Insecurity." These images will also debut with our FW 12 collection this coming fashion week.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Because a lot of these human insecurities lend themselves to physical attributes of the subjects the color story ended up lending itself to something that was very much based on anatomy.  We are using warm grays, reds and burnt hues of brown to break up the main base of black that represents the dark meaning of the clothes. The beauty is found in the extreme combinations of texture and more tailored and handmade construction of so many of the pieces.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Holy Other, Balam Acab, and that new Lana Del Ray song Born to Die.

What do you look for when casting your show? 
Now that we're doing full-on womens, it's about representing still the unisex identity of the collection.  I want to show extreme masculinity along with very soft femininity and, of course, those that sort of blur the line in an ethereal way.  

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
As the rack grows I find my energy in seeing the looks come together.  Seeing pieces being finished and getting to share what our vision for the coming debut is. I like to surround myself with friends and colleagues in the work space for dinner and discussion and get their feedback and reflect on life outside of fashion while never leaving our think tank. Because as it gets closer I really never leave.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Threeasfour, Rad Hourani and Marchesa.  I know that seams to be a weird lineup but I don't make many shows anymore, so if I'm going to go to a few I'd like to see something very diverse in each one.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Start working on spring!

Louis Mairone will present the Dominic Louis  fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at upstairs Terrace of The Bowery Hotel.

Fall 2012 Preview: Tadashi Shoji

 
What inspired you for Fall 2012?
The Golden Age of Shanghai. 

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Both the colors and fabrics are rich and opulent.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Silence. 

What do you look for when casting your show/presentation?
Poise, personality, and a good walk. 

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Yoga.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I unfortunately never have the time to see the other shows.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Spending time in my Pasadena, California home.

Tadashi Shoji will show his fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at The Stage in Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: M.Patmos

 
What inspired you for Fall 2012?
My inspiration began with a trip to the Pacific Northwest section of Powell's bookstore in Portland, Oregon when visiting in the spring. The book The Women by Edward S. Curtis features portraits of Native American women from the early 1900s. The women are wearing strikingly modern outfits, mixing plaid trading blankets over traditionally beaded and embellished textiles. The mixing of natural materials is graphic, textural and impactful. 

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
I have many new mixes of fabric, texture, yarn and color that play out in new versions of classic M.Patmos styles, as well as shapes inspired by the idea. 

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Sometimes I am really happy with silence, but I was also listening to Bon Iver and Cotton Jones.

What do you look for when casting your show/presentation?
A mix of women who are strong, have  good presence and look great in the clothing.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?Yoga and green juice.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I love seeing what my friends are doing, as well as the ones I love to look at: A Detacher, Tess Giberson, Maria Cornejo, Thakoon, Celine, Stella McCartney, Marni...

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
I haven't had time to plan but thinking hot weather and beach—maybe Costa Rica?

Marcia Patmos will present the M.Patmos fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at Milk Studios.

Fall 2012 Preview: Lauren Moffatt

 
What inspired you for fall 2012?
Charm. Tongue-in-cheek irony. Classicness. All wrapped up in a school girl.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Our color palette and materials are classic , but the shapes and details add a bit of an ironic twist. This juxtaposition is the common thread throughout our fall collection.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
WFUV 90.7.

What do you look for when casting your show?
We look for girls who are natural and have that wide-eyed quality.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW? 
Adrenalin.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week? 
I’d be happy to just sleep past 7am.

Lauren Moffatt will present her fall 2012 collection on Wednesday, February 8th at at The Old School.