Citing Edvard Munch's 1889 portrait of Hans Jaeger as inspiration, Carolina Herrera sent out a collection that utilized an uncharacteristically somber palette - lots of gray, grape, bark and black, with a judicious sprinkling of a hue she dubbed "captain blue" - and was equally restrained in its use of frou and embellishment.
That is not to say this collection was staid or boring. Quite the opposite, in fact. By moving away from the sherbet colors she used this spring and jettisoning the mumsy silhouettes of last fall for edgier, more fashion-forward shapes, Herrera seems to be courting a younger - or at least more modern-thinking - client.
Sure, there were plenty of her trademark pretty print dresses and gala-worthy gowns, but there were also lots of mix-and-match separates, some in an unexpectedly cool lamé and soft-focus plaid, along with sleek wool sheaths with unexpected embellishments (from copper disc panels to geometric embroidery).
Herrera also showed plenty of fur, of course, but this time around, in addition to the usual ladies-who-lunch statement coats and Park Avenue princess chubbies, she added knit-edged fox mufflers with built in pockets, and a slouchy, oversized grandpa cardigan edged in fox that looked uber-modern casually tossed over an embroidered chiffon dress - the epitome of uptown-goes-downtown chic.
Interestingly, there was not a single handbag in sight. But then, with a collection this fine, accessories would be superfluous.
Photos © Gg/The Bigger Picture Pictures. For additional, larger images from this show, click here