"It was about flight and sport for me," said Thakoon Panichgul backstage after the fall 2007 collection he presented Monday night at the Prince George Ballroom in Murray Hill. "I wanted everything to be about flights of fancy, with lots of shimmer."
Shimmer, it did. And then some. From the opening look (a drop waist dress of feather-printed jacquard) to the last (an ink "swan" dress made entirely of, yes, swan feathers), Thakoon evolved the softly structured volume he introduced for spring with creations that managed to be sophisticated and ethereal at the same time - no easy feat.
A tweed cocoon coat boasted seams that resembled the silhouette of bird's feathers; similar seaming turned up on a short tulip skirt paired with a jacquard sweatshirt - to cool casual-luxe effect - and the flowers that Thakoon was obsessed with last spring reappeared, in sequins this time, on a duchess satin sweatshirt dress (a nod to his athletic theme, as was a cashmere baseball cardigan).
The 2006 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up gave a shout-out to his Vogue homegirls in the form of a "Poiret" knit cardigan beneath a chunky cocoon jacket, and a Poiret-inspired georgette "lampshade" dress that will surely be worn by only the bravest fashionistas. (Vogue's Anna Wintour is chairing the upcoming Paul Poiret exhibit at the Met Museum's Costume Institute, and rumor has it that she has asked several designers to make Poiret-inspired frocks for various celebrities and society gals to wear to the opening gala in May, so perhaps Thakoon was warming up for that task).
But the designer soon returned to his aviary theme with pretty peacock-print dresses, fanciful coq feather skirts and the aforementioned swan dress. After all, not everyone's going to want to wear a hoop skirt to what is often billed as The Party of the Year.
Photos by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Thakoon