"The inspiration came from our visit to Australia, specifically the architecture we saw in Melbourne," said Gene Kang, who is the Kei half of the label Y & Kei (his partner, Hanii Yoon, is the Y), after the fall 2007 collection the duo presented in Bryant Park on Thursday afternoon. "So we used an architectural and graphic approach, with patchwork and new cutting lines, grafting and color-blocking for new proportions."
Indeed, the Federation Square building-themed collection referenced that iconic structure in geometric details both subtle (contrast-color obi belts defined slim skirts and pants) and overt (ivory chiffon insets lent a modernist edge to a black silk cocktail dress, while a similarly graphic belt did the same for a pencil skirt).
The duo also used lovely origami-like treatments throughout - folded, geodesic-like flowers on a bodice here, fabric rosettes tucked beneath the cuff of an elbow-length sleeve or peeking out from a jacket collar there - that added an understated feminine touch to the otherwise structured, masculine collection. And they did some especially cool slouchy, hip-slung trousers, including one pair in hunter green satin shown with an origami-detailed tank that would make for a great evening-out alternative to their more traditional dresses and gowns, several of which were strapless numbers with garter-style lingerie straps purposely peeking out from their low-cut backs or had swishy braided straps trailing down the wearer's spine.
"I thought it was fantastic; I was just delirious," crowed Friends/CSI actress Aisha Taylor backstage after the show. "What I loved about it was it was a little bit more muscular than most things they’ve done in the past, but it still had their beautiful, feminine details, with the rosettes tucked into the sleeve or under the collar. It was fantastic! They just didn’t lose their viewpoint and they design so well with details - like the beautiful strapless dresses with the swimsuit strap detail. I was totally seduced."
Photos © Gg/The Bigger Picture Pictures. For additional, larger images from this show, click here