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August 2007

August 30, 2007

Spring 2008 Preview: Rodarte

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What was your inspiration for spring 2008?
Feminine abstraction and translucent layers.

What colors, fabrics and silhouettes can we expect?
Organza, silk tulle, lame, duchess cotton, antique lace, laminated tulle, rubber and linen.

Are bubble/sack dresses really over, as claimed by NY mag and all the other proponents of the new long and lean look?
We feel that design is best done without limitations. Shapes can always be interpreted and brought to life in a new and meaningful manner.

If you had to choose a single woman, real of fictional, who best represented your spring 2008 collection, who would it be?
Chihiro from Hayao Miyazaki's movie, Spirited Away.

What trend are you loving at the moment?
Planting one's own vegetable garden.

What trend are you over?
Everyone having the same music taste.

What trend are you hoping to ignite for spring 2008?
Individuality.

Rodarte is scheduled to show on Saturday, September 8th.

Spring 2008 Preview: Thakoon

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What do you look for when choosing a show venue?
The show venue has to always reflect the attitude of the clothes. Though in my perfect world, we'd always have it at a dingy garage.

What's the most unlikely place you've ever found creative inspiration, and how did it manifest itself in your collection?
I once found the broken piece of a gem on the street in Tokyo that turned into seaming ideas.

What do you look for when casting a model, and does it change from season to season?
The models change season to season, but what's constant is poise. It may sound corny, but there is definitely something that happens between the clothes on the right girls.

What other designer's show(s) are you looking forward to seeing?
I really want to see Marc Jacobs!

Thakoon is scheduled to show his collection on Friday, September 7th at Eyebeam.

Spring 2008 Preview: Sue Stemp

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What was your inspiration for spring 2008?
The collection is titled “Désordre Anglais," a phrase used by the French to describe the haphazard English chic. I was inspired by the eccentric oddball glamour of a quintessential London girl. She mixes references - vintage (think: early '70s, Mick and Bianca Jagger at the Hotel Byblos in Saint-Tropez where they were married) with something from her travels. I have just returned from India and picked up a lot of textile inspiration at the markets there - with something modern, cool and unexpected.

What colors, fabrics and silhouettes can we expect?
The colors are bright fairy-light shades of cobalt, hot pink, jade and Sunkist yellow mixed with neutrals and highlighted with metallics. I love textiles and have collaborated again with artists Deanne Cheuk and Ben Copperwheat on prints, which include Paisley Rain, Monsoon and Feather Oasis. We’ve also hand-screened a foil print in my studio for a few showpieces, too, which was a first. The silhouette is slimmer and longer than previous seasons, but still relaxed and effortlessly glamorous.

Are bubble/sack dresses really over, as claimed by NY mag and all the other proponents of the new long and lean look?
I do have a number of cool longer dresses in my spring collection and I think they’re really relevant again.

If you had to choose a single woman, real of fictional, who best represented your spring 2008 collection, who would it be?
The model Marie Helvin in the early '70s, at the time she was married to David Bailey.

What trend are you loving at the moment?
Headbands and playsuits.

What trend are you over?
Knockoffs.

What trend are you hoping to ignite for spring 2008?
Feathers, braids and raffia details.

Sue Stemp is scheduled to show her spring 2008 collection on September 5th at the Maritime Hotel.

August 29, 2007

Spring 2008 Preview: Shelly Steffee

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What was your inspiration for spring 2008?
Purity of shape, of line - exact intention!

What colors, fabrics and silhouettes can we expect?
Colors: navy, pewter, leaf green, citron, skin and white. Fabrics: voile leather, girdle jersey, duchess satin, glazed poplin, glazed jersey, and liquid twill. Silhouette: a long lean cone shape, a nipped cone shape.

Are bubble/sack dresses really over, as claimed by NY mag and all the other proponents of the new long and lean look?
They’re over for now. The sack shape has been so oversaturated because it was so easy. I think closer to the body feels good right now.

What's the most unlikely place you've ever found creative inspiration, and how did it manifest itself in your collection?
Venom, a book of photos on snakes, spiders and jellyfish. It has been a constant inspiration for beading patterns, print patterns, colors and textures.

If you had to choose a single woman, real of fictional, who best represented your spring 2008 collection, who would it be?
The virgin from the book Perfume.

What trend are you loving at the moment?
The couture feeling. Highly stylized, well-crafted and executed pieces.

What trend are you over?
The skinny leg jean.

What trend are you hoping to ignite for spring 2008?
Vitality and engineered graphics.

Random Questions For…John Bartlett

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There aren’t too many designers out there who graduated Harvard with a degree in sociology before honing their fashion craft at FIT. In fact, we know of just one: the witty, self-effacing John Bartlett, who did just that – and apprenticed with menswear gurus Willi Smith, Bill Robinson and Ronaldus Shamask – before launching his own eponymous menswear label in 1992.

The collection won him countless fans, orders from Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman, two CFDAs (the Perry Ellis Award for Best Newcomer in 1993 and the Menswear Designer of the Year in 1997), and led to a gig moonlighting as creative director of Byblos in the late ‘90s.

Despite the accolades, Bartlett hit a rough patch when his backers dropped out in 2000, and he shuttered his business in 2002 to take a year long sabbatical in Thailand and Cambodia, where he studied Ashtangha yoga and Buddhism. He relaunched his line in 2003 with a preppy, tailored collection that was a far cry from his previous overtly erotic oeuvre.

Next month, Bartlett – who is also creative director for the handbag company, Ghurka – is set to launch a website (www.johnbartlettny.com) and will open his first flagship boutique in New York’s West Village, which will stock his complete ready-to-wear and made-to-measure collections (natch), along with a range of one-of-a-kind furnishings, ceramics, hand screened t-shirts, and a selection of fragrance and art books.

Here, Bartlett gives The Fashion Informer the low-down on his four-legged menagerie, his penchant for cereal-and-ciggie breakfasts, and how he flips people out with his no-longer-secret talent.

So, John…


What is your earliest fashion memory?
I remember picking up my fabulous grandmother (who looked like Endora from Bewitched) at the airport when I was five. She was living in Phoenix at the time but arrived in Ohio wearing a black leather coat with a big fur collar and a fur hat. I remember very clearly petting the fur hat as she held me on the escalator. I was obsessed with it and she kept catching me playing with it during that particular visit. I am anti-fur these days but I will never forget that hat and the fact that she worked in a fur vault at a department store in Phoenix.

What is your favorite book of all time?
The Tao Te ChIng by Lao Tzu. It tells you every thing you need to know about life in simple poetic prose. I discovered it in college and it is at my side always.

Do you believe in love at first sight?
I believe in lust at first sight, but love is a lifelong expression. However, I do believe in love at first sight when it comes to animals. When I first saw my three-legged dog, Tiny Tim, at the pound, I knew immediately that we were meant for each other.

What did you have for breakfast this morning?
I have coffee, a Marlboro Light, and Cheerios every day. Not exactly the breakfast of champions.

Do you have any hidden or unusual talents?
I can still do four back handsprings in a row and a standing back flip on the ground. When I was younger and in college I competed nationally on the diving team and tumbling was part of my training. I am afraid to dive anymore but can still wow peeps with my gymnastic prowess.

Tell me about your pet(s).
My hubby and I have three dogs: Huff, Tiny Tim and Mel. Huff is a Burmese mountain dog, Tiny Tim is a three-legged Shepherd mix and Mel is a white rescue from the Ozarks of mysterious parentage.

What freaks you out?
The Religious Right.

What's your favorite off-duty activity?
Making collages out of my old After Dark magazines.

What's your favorite non-fashion magazine?
I actually don’t read fashion mags. My favorite magazine right now is The Shambhala Sun, which is a Buddhist magazine.

If you had the chance to ask God one question (assuming s/he exists), what would it be?
I would ask her specifically why I am here on earth and what my life purpose is. And if I got to ask another question, I would ask why hair has starting growing on my ears ever since I turned 40.

What never fails to make you cry?
Every time I watch the movie Fame I cry my eyes out. Corny, huh?

When are you happiest?
I am happiest when I am lying in bed in the morning with my coffee, the New York Times and all three dogs in bed with me.


Stay tuned for Random Questions For…Tim Gunn on September 19th.

August 28, 2007

Spring 2008 Preview: Phillip Lim

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What was your inspiration for spring 2008?
Spring 2008 is a reflection of journeys, travels, expeditions we all have/will take to locales across the world. Along the way, we encounter experiences, objects and influences that shape who we are and who we want to be from moment to moment, from space to place. I was looking at old photographs from the 60's and 70's of random people - celebrities, socialites and normal civilians - and these amazing images of them returning from their travels and departing an airport with really chic complete outfits of the time but accented with exotic objects, accessories and jewelry that they picked up from the excursion. I thought this was such an interesting juxtaposition - mixing the familiar with the unexpected/exotic. So the result is a colorful, dynamic and chic evolution of forward dressing.

What colors, fabrics and silhouettes can we expect?
You can call it a Mixed Fruit Smoothie: A mixing of primary and secondary colors like citron, tangerine, cardinal, golden rod, poppy, cadet blue thrown together with neutrals such as cement, stone, bark, navy and gray. Fabrics are very natural and travel-friendly: Cottons - from fine to double-faced - silk blends, raffia, mohair-wool blends, and luxe leather and suede. Shapes are everything and anything. I feel this is more modern and fun then to just be limited/confined to the idea of what is ‘now in fashion.’

Are bubble/sack dresses really over, as claimed by New York mag and all the other proponents of the new long and lean look?
It is case-by-case basis. See 'shapes' answer, above.

What's the most unlikely place you've ever found creative inspiration, and how did it manifest itself in your collection?
Private moments in the restroom. It’s all about that intimacy that allows you to reflect.

If you had to choose a single woman, real of fictional, who best represented your spring 2008 collection, who would it be?
It would be a 34-year-old woman named Ingeborg Day. She is an office worker in midtown Manhattan and the mother of a 12-year-old girl, with a relatable allowance to spend on clothing - it’s all about CPW (cost-per-wear) - and she has a penchant for colorful tights.

What trend are you loving at the moment?
The idea that the word "trend" is so trendy!

What trend are you over?
The trend of having to have trends.

What trend are you hoping to ignite for spring 2008?
The freedom to wear what you feel. A personal liberation.

Phillip Lim is scheduled to present his collection on Sunday, September 9tth at the New York Public Library, Celeste Bartos Forum.

August 27, 2007

Spring 2008 Preview: Rachel Roy

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What was your inspiration for spring 2008?
The inspiration for the Spring '08 collection is both Monet's Water Lilies - water and sky in one painting - and a Peter Lindbergh photograph.

What colors, fabrics and silhouettes can we expect?
Moss/coppers/grays, dark orchid/lavenders, brilliant pink/whites. Shiny texture, controlled volume and easy structure.

Are bubble/sack dresses really over, as claimed by New York mag and all the other proponents of the new long and lean look?
Bubble dresses and skirts are not over if it is what a women loves and it's a signature piece for her. However, controlled structure is the modern take on volume.

What's the most unlikely place you've ever found creative inspiration, and how did it manifest itself in your collection?
There is actually no unlikely place to find inspiration as beauty can be found everywhere. I have been inspired by bark from a tree - the strength and grandeur inspired grainier fabrics, more rustic beauty, etc. The list goes on and on.

If you had to choose a single woman, real of fictional, who best represented your spring 2008 collection, who would it be?
The collection is many women. She is strong, hard working, sincere, purposeful, intelligent, easygoing, chic, professional, edgy, happy, a mother, a friend, a single woman, a hippie spirit. The collection is a balance of everything I strive to be and those are the qualities in woman that inspire the designs. Women have so many facets to them, it is impossible to name just one.

What trend are you loving at the moment?
I love the idea of dressing up and being a lady and love that more people are dressing up this fall season.

What trend are you over?
The idea that you have to wear something because it is a trend.

What trend are you hoping to ignite for spring 2008?
The idea of glamour being what you make it and what works for you: a ball skirt to dinner just because, a knee length skirt and white blouse to the ballet because you want to be comfortable - yet all the time looking chic because you feel chic, not forced.


Rachel Roy is scheduled to present her spring 2008 collection on Wednesday, September 5th.

August 26, 2007

Spring 2008 Preview: Lela Rose

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What was your inspiration for spring 2008?
Using a color palette inspired by the works of Matisse, the collection is blending the tailored, sharp sophisticated fashion sense of Katherine Hepburn with the more feminine Audrey Hepburn.

What colors, fabrics and silhouettes can we expect?
One of my favorites is a sporty taffeta anorak paired with a sweetheart dress made of guipure lace over burlap linen.

Are bubble/sack dresses really over, as claimed by New York mag and all the other proponents of the new long and lean look?
Sadly so...all things must come to an end!

What's the most unlikely place you've ever found creative inspiration, and how did it manifest itself in your collection?
From a homeless man on the subway. He had his pants hemmed with a funky color combination and I loved it.

If you had to choose a single woman, real of fictional, who best represented your spring 2008 collection, who would it be?
Katherine Audrey Hepburn.

What trend are you loving at the moment?
Sporty cocktail.

What trend are you over?
Spiky heels.

What trend are you hoping to ignite for spring 2008?
Colored plastic shoes and belts.

Lela Rose is scheduled to show her collection on Thursday, September 6th in the Salon at Bryant Park.

August 21, 2007

Random Questions For…Thom Browne

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Since launching his bespoke menswear line in 2001, actor-turned-designer Thom Browne has pretty much changed the face – make that inseam length - of men’s fashion, with everyone from Marc Jacobs to YSL to his former employer, Ralph Lauren, now showing suits shrunken to schoolboy proportions, with wrists and sockless ankles exposed and trousers hiked high above the waist, 1950’s nerdlinger-style.

Browne’s efforts to inch the menswear industry into the 21st century (albeit by looking backward) were rewarded with a 2006 CFDA award for Menswear Designer of the Year and a gig designing Brooks Brothers' just-launched Black Fleece label of unisex separates and suiting, with the hope that Browne’s geek chic appeal will lift Bro-Bro (aka, America’s oldest surviving menswear retailer) from its decades-long doldrums and inject the brand with some much-needed sex appeal. Or, rather, style appeal, as most folks outfitted in Browne’s supremely structured, buttoned-up garments don’t much look like the sort who’d enjoy taking off said garments to have actual s-e-x.

The Fashion Informer queried the charmingly low-key Browne while he was in the midst of designing a men’s jewelry line for Harry Winston and putting the finishing touches on his eponymous spring 2008 ready-to-wear collection, which is likely to be yet another past perfect paean reworked for the here and now.

So, Thom…

What's your favorite book?
“The Fountainhead.”

If you had to choose one song to listen to for the rest of your life, what song would you choose?
Mahler's 5th Symphony Adagietto.

What did you eat for lunch today?
Tuna salad on white toast.

What is it about the aesthetic of the 1950s/60s that appeals to you so much?
This is when there was a true American sensibility. It was a time when the Europeans and others looked to the US for style.

What's the biggest difference between designing your own line and designing for Brooks Brothers' Black Fleece?
They both start from the same, classical place, but for Black Fleece, my responsibility is to be true to Brooks Brothers. For my own collection, I can be provocative.

What's your favorite getaway spot and why?
Any place where I can be by myself.

Who's your favorite traveling companion?
I travel a lot with Miki [his publicist].

Ocean or mountains?
The mountains.

Preferred mode of transportation?
Car.

How do you survive NYC summers?
Wearing my seersucker suit.

What music do you play while designing, or do you work in total silence?
I work in total silence.

What's your favorite historic monument?
The Vendome Column in Place Vendome in Paris. I like staying at The Ritz, and it's so beautiful when you walk out of the hotel.

What was your favorite subject in junior high school?
Phys Ed.

When are you happiest?
When I'm working.


Stay tuned next week for Random Questions For…John Bartlett

Photos of Thom Browne collection courtesy of Thom Browne. Brooks Brothers Black Fleece photos courtesy of Brooks Brothers.

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August 10, 2007

The Fashion Informer Is On The Road

...searching out style news and scoops. Please check back August 21st for the latest fashion intel.


Illustration by Lana Frankel

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August 05, 2007

Random Questions For…Rachel Roy

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When we first met Rachel Roy in the summer of 2005 - during which we spent a long afternoon together for a designer shopping profile - we came away thinking that the California native was one of the kindest, most gracious people we’d ever met.

Two years on, Roy’s eponymous womenswear collection – while still feminine, elegant and vintage-inspired – has grown by leaps and bounds, she has several well-received Fashion Week presentations under her belt, and she was recently inducted, along with 29 other up-and-coming designers, into the Council of Fashion Designers of America. And she remains one of the kindest, most gracious people we’ve ever met.

Roy's background in a nutshell: she loved fashion from an early age and worked at stores like Contempo Casuals before getting a degree in communications at Columbia Union College in Washington, D.C. After moving to New York post-graduation, she worked as a magazine and video stylist prior to becoming design director of Rocawear juniors, the clothing company her husband, Rocafella Records CEO Damon Dash, co-founded with Jay-Z (a title she holds to this day).

The Fashion Informer caught up with the 33-year-old Roy between her two design gigs and her other full-time job - as wife to Dash and “mama” to the couple’s seven-year-old daughter, Ava – earlier this month.

So, Rachel…


What’s your earliest fashion memory?
Arranging my fashionless parents' drawers around age three or four and folding each t-shirt and underwear with pride and respect for the garment. I loved clothing from Day One.

When you were nine, what did you want to be when you grew up?
A buyer for Mervyns, which is a low-price department store my mother made us shop in. I wanted to put nicer clothes in the store that I was forced, due to economics, to shop in. I thought we deserved beautiful clothes, too.

What's your favorite store in the world?
Book stores. Any one, I’m not picky. I can lose myself.

What's the most unlikely thing that's inspired a collection?
The bark of a tree. The beauty in the thought that each year was present on the trunk, displayed proud for all to see. It demanded respect due to its confidence and gracefulness without saying a word.

What's in current rotation on your iPod?
Citizen Cope and Alice Smith.

What's your favorite movie of all time?
Past: “The Women.” Current: “Sicko.”

If you found $15,000 in a brown paper bag, how would you spend it?
I’d hire another sample maker for a few months.

What's your favorite holiday?
Any day I can spend in the sun.

Brunch: pro or con?
Depends on your dining companion.

What's your favorite sound? 
My daughter calling me “Mama.” It is just the sweetest.

What does it mean to you to be a new member of the CFDA?
It is an undeserved compliment of the highest order; [the CFDA] is a resource of wealth and knowledge.


Stay tuned later this week for Random Questions For…Thom Browne