What were some of your favorite shows from the New York spring/summer collections?
MARY ALICE STEPHENSON, STYLIST:
I have to say Rodarte was absolutely one of my favorite shows. I had a few but Rodarte…I loved every single piece. I think they’re such a talented duo and they, for me…I’m not a retailer, so I don’t need to see wearable clothes. I need to see clothes that make a fantastic picture and clothes that I feel are pushing the envelope. And I think the craftsmanship and the attention to detail, but yet, even though it was so creative it was still chic. So I heard from other people, well, can you wear those clothes? And I would wear those clothes and I would put the actresses that I work with, both for fashion pictures and for the red carpet, in those clothes. I adored it. I’m trying to think what else was good. I mean, what’s not to love about Donna Karan still? It was creative, wearable, womanly. And every time you go to a Donna Karan show you just walk away feeling somehow more confident as a woman, you know? So I thought it was sexy, sophisticated and chic. It’s how I want to look next summer.
NINA GARCIA, FASHION DIRECTOR, ELLE:
Oh, my God, so many. Oscar tops the list. It was just incredibly sophisticated, incredibly elegant. It was moving – the chorus they had was amazing. The clothes were exquisite. So that’s one of my favorites. Proenza Schouler was the other one. They both happen to be uptown (laughs). What a coincidence. And I really enjoyed Ralph. It was also a very moving show and fantastic to watch.
MICHAEL FINK, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE:
My favorite shows have been Oscar, Zac and Donna Karan. I think they all gave amazingly different viewpoints of the spring season. I think Oscar delivered a full, well-rounded collection of fantastic, chic daywear separates and ensembles. I love that coming back. With a trip into tribal, ethnic prints, which, as handled by him, was just so masterfully done. And then outrageous eveningwear. We haven’t seen a lot of outrageous evening and there it was – and so glamorous. And at Zac, just really reining his creative spirit into pure line, pure spirit but still looking very Zac, very controlled. Not the excess, over-the-top thing that we’ve come to expect. I just thought it was a wonderful show. And then, Donna gave such wonderful, exciting solutions for a modern woman. Everything based back to the body suit. You wanted a full skirt, embroidered, there it was. You wanted a slim skirt, there it was. Both looked equally wonderful.
SIMON DOONAN, BARNEYS NEW YORK:
I loved Rodarte. It was delicious – those confections made of tulle. Loved them. I thought Narciso was great, that shorter silhouette with the cropped pants was very nifty. It was sort of, very, girl-friendly. I know that sounds naff, but you know what I mean. What else did I love? I’m sure I would’ve loved Marc Jacobs but I had to go home. By 10:40, I was out the door. Not in a huff. I didn’t leave in a huff. I just thought, I need to go home now and walk the dog and take my girdle off. Because I had to be up at 7 o’clock the next morning to file my column. I had to take my girdle off and file my Observer column, Marc, that’s why I left. I wasn’t in a huff. I didn’t see a huge number of shows, but those are the ones that stand out. We’re in the middle of preparing for our San Francisco opening - half of Barneys has left already - so that is looming much larger on my horizon. We’re going to do a lot of windows in San Francisco with all sorts of interesting local charities.
LINDA FARGO, BERGDORF GOODMAN:
I liked a lot of things this week, fortunately. Because the more you like it the more your customers are going to like it. Hopefully, I’m the first barometer on taking a read on that. But I loved Oscar de la Renta. He comes to mind first. He’s just really a master and he’s never contrived. I think he defines chic and it’s perfect for our customer. So I loved – loved! – Oscar. I loved Calvin. I loved Narciso. As far as emerging designers go, Thakoon is looking great. Doo.Ri we loved. I hate to even call them emerging anymore, even though they barely just got their foot in the door. But I think with some of the bigger companies picking them up so quickly and investing in them so quickly, [young designers] are able to grow maybe faster than at one point they were able to. And I think you can attribute that to the higher profile that fashion has received on the world stage, with style.com, “Project Runway”…it’s so much more of a media thing that the financial world pays closer attention to us. That’s my theory on that. And I’m leaving somebody important out that I loved… Oh, I think from an ethereal beauty and fantasy standpoint, and kind of our resident couturiers, I would say the Rodarte girls. I’d also say for quintessential American sportswear, which is looking really right again, is Michael Kors.
JULIE GILHART, BARNEYS:
I loved Narciso. I loved Rodarte. I loved Anne Klein. I look for originality and also the fact that it’s cohesive as a collection and that there are great things that we can sell. Just that it’s not repetitive and it’s original.
Photos © The Fashion Informer and Gg, The Bigger Picture Pictures