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December 2007

December 23, 2007

Shelly Steffee: Mama’s Got a Brand-New Bag

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Long a favorite of The Fashion Informer for her imminently intelligent, ingeniously tailored, just-this-side-of-avant clothing, New York designer Shelly Steffee hosted a party at her loft-like Meatpacking District earlier this month to celebrate the launch of her new limited-edition handbag collection, which will be sold in her boutique and online at Refinery29 Shops.  
 
A slew of fashion insiders, including the Refinery29 folks (natch) and editors from Vogue, braved the cold, blustery conditions to attend the champagne-fueled fete.  Guests were greeted at the door with festive pomegranate cocktails – and a trio of chicly adorned, ornament-topped mannequins - while DJ Jason spun tunes and Steffee and her staff worked their charms on the invitees.  
 
“For the last few seasons, I’ve been trying to find fabrics I can have in the collection every season that I can become proficient at,” said Steffee of the bag’s genesis. “So one fabric is a liquid twill, the other is a cotton poplin called blaze poplin, and another is liquid jersey. I like the idea of continuing to work in the same fabric and treating it differently each season to get better at it, the way Vionnet worked with silk and georgette until she discovered bias and Madame Grés discovered her Grecian theme.”

“I wanted to make a bag that looked like it evolved from a garment,” she added. “So this bag was inspired by the fall ’07 collection - and the pleated back dress and pleated coverup in particular. It was about taking that element from the garments, using the same pattern and turning it into a bag with the accent of metallic mesh. And the whole collection was quilted so we put lamb’s wool and batting in it to give it some volume and make it go year-round and have that fabric manipulation feeling instead of being a hard leather bag.”
 
For spring 2008, Steffee presented a typically accomplished collection, full of easy-to-wear rolled cuff trousers, slouchy tops and sexy leather-trimmed jackets, which artfully pair flowing feminine fabrics with masculine tailoring techniques. Until those duds hit stores in February, her besotted fashion fans can content themselves with this stylish, go-with-everything satchel.
 
For more information or to purchase a Shelly Steffee handbag ($270), visit Shelly Steffee or Refinery29.


Photos © The Fashion Informer

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December 17, 2007

Mari’s New York: Brown(ie) Is the New Black

 

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OK, so technically, yes, this is a fashion site.  But The Fashion Informer is also a serious chocoholic with a sweet tooth bigger than Diane Pernet’s beehive.  Which is why we interrupt our usual style coverage to bring you this important public service announcement.  
 
A colleague at Vogue introduced us to Mari’s brownies, which are baked by his friend, Mari Tuttle. Well, what Diane does with an updo and Alber Elbaz does with cloth Mari does with flour, chocolate and whatever the hell else goes in brownies.  We’re talking seriously amazing, addictive, stupendously delicious brownies. The kind that make every other brownie you’ve ever eaten pale in comparison.  
 
We first sampled Mari’s Classic brownie, as did another friend, and the two of us sat there in what can only be called a brownie stupor for a full minute, just silently reveling in the explosion of taste and texture we were experiencing (dark chocolate and Madasgar bourbon being two of the main ingredients).  Sated but wanting more, more, more, we then split a Caramel Sea Salt brownie.  Yes, you read that right:  Caramel.  Sea salt.  Brownie. Like peanut butter and chocolate, these are three great tastes that taste great together. And never more so than in Mari’s delectable little morsels, which marry dark chocolate with gourmet Cyprian sea salt.  
 
“My favorite reaction is always the same, and it seems to happen quite often,” says Tuttle, who was Director of Bakery Operations at Balthazar before leaving to launch Mari’s New York, which specializes exclusively in homemade brownies. “When people first try our brownies, they'll take take a bite and chew. Then, often their eyes close and their chewing slows. Eventually, the eyes open again - slowly, and with their mouths still full of brownie, they say, 'Wow' or 'Oh my God.' Sometimes they seem lost for words and they just keep their eyes closed nodding up and down over and over. That always makes me smile and say ‘Yay!’” Well, your brownies made us smile and say “Yay!,” too, Ms. Tuttle.
 
Aside from the out-of-this-world flavor, there’s another thing that makes Mari’s brownies so genius: each one is literally bite-sized (two bites, tops). Just the thing for a figure-conscious fashionista. And the fact that they come packaged in an elegant oblong box - that just happens to be Hermes orange – doesn’t hurt, either.   You can order a mix of flavors - in addition to the aforementioned Classic and Caramel Sea Salt (our personal fave), there’s also Classic with Nuts, Coconut, Thai Coffee, Heat, Blonde Bombshell and the seasonal specialties Cranberry Cognac, Sugar & Spice, (Rasp)berry Good, Figgy, Mighty Mint and L’Orange – or you can choose just one flavor per box.

“To me, brownies are the unsung heros of the chocolate world,” adds Tuttle. “We make ours fudgy and rich - hence the two-bite size design - but not so rich that you feel like you've overindulged. We use only the finest chocolate and we never use artificial flavors or preservatives. Then, we package our brownies with the same reverence that people typically apply to fine chocolate truffles.” Or, we might add, a fine chocolate leather handbag.
 
So this holiday season, why not surprise the chocolate-loving fashion hounds on your list with Mari’s brownies?  At $16 for a box of six, this is one stylish goodie that won’t break the bank – and if their reaction is anything like ours, it’s a gift they’ll treasure even longer than last season’s “It” bag.


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Rogan Gregory the Next Target Designer

Fresh from his CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund win, WWD reports that Rogan Gregory (the dapper dude behind Rogan, Loomstate and EDUN) has been tapped as the next Go Target guest designer, following Erin Fetherston and Loeffler Randall.

No word yet on whether the Rogan Gregory for Target collection is aimed at men or women - neither Gregory nor Target has confirmed the report, though WWD did report that Sarah Silver shot the campaign in NYC last week - so this does look to be a done deal. Stay tuned for more deets.

December 11, 2007

Random Questions For...Lucy Sykes and Euan Rellie

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They may be known as a New York power couple (and the face of the Cookie mag “Point of Passion” ad campaign, where she happens to be a contributing editor), but kiddie clothing designer Lucy Sykes and investment banker Euan Rellie are English born and bred, which is one of the many reasons the fashion flock is so enamored of them.

The fact that Lucy’s the former fashion director of Marie Claire, twin sister of novelist Plum, and designs an unusually sophisticated children’s clothing, footwear and bedding line doesn’t hurt, either. Nor does the fact that Euan is an Eton- and Cambridge-educated financier who also acts as Chairman of Lucy Sykes New York and serves on the committee of Soho House New York and on the board of the West Village Nursery School in his spare time. And, oh yeah, they’re both incredibly charming, funny, down-to-earth and unspeakably chic. Really, what’s not to love?

The Fashion Informer tracked down the multi-tasking duo (who have two sons, 4-year-old Heathcliff and 8-month-old Titus) before the holiday rush began to ask a few irreverent questions.

So, Mr. and Mrs. Rellie...


What is your favorite time of day?
Euan: Dawn, eating breakfast at Florent.  There's always a good reason if I'm up then, either ending the day or, more likely these days, just starting it.  

Lucy: 7pm, when Heathcliff and Titus cozy up for a cuddle before their bedtime.  It's my first moment of peace each day in New York City.


Tell me about your best friend.
Euan: Omar Dobouny.  Ropey best man.  Has the most brilliantly flexible and dexterous mind of anyone I ever met.  Apparently afraid of nothing.  Bucks trends.  Dances well.  Knows how to have fun.  Shocks people and then wins them over.  Occasionally known as “The Terrorist.”  Used to be an investment banker.  He's a quarter Iraqi, a quarter Saudi and half Irish.  Prone to getting himself, and sometimes me, into trouble.

Lucy: One of them is Tracy Taylor.  She is the accomplished and stylish Fashion Director Marie Claire.  She looked great in a hat and fitted jacket photographer by Bill Cunningham in the New York Times Style section last weekend.  She is Godmother to my son Titus.  My husband and kids all adore her.


What did you have for lunch today?
Euan: Sushi at Ise [in Midtown].  Best fish in the city.  Unprepossessing place.  Great prices.  Now the secret is out.  I go by myself, almost every day, as does my business partner, Charlie Maynard.  We sit more or less next to each other at the sushi bar but we don't speak.  

Lucy: Yesterday's Chinese takeaway from Chinese Garden in Southampton; it’s even more delicious out of the microwave the next day.


What is your favorite work of art?
Euan: Chariot of the Sun, 2002 by the Brooklyn-based painter Elliott Puckette.  She was born in Lexington, Kentucky.  Her paintings are semi-legible, ornate, curvaceous, bewitching, seductive.  They depict elegant half truths.

Lucy: Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.  Any of his can-can paintings.  Bawdy Parisian nights filled with hedonistic dancers, who are basically just letting go.


What was the best party you've ever attended - and what made it so great?
Euan: New Year's Eve 1991 in Eaton Square Mews North.  I snorted tequila. Not recommended.  It was the end of an era for me.  Responsibility beckoned, and was knocking on the door.  That night, I did not answer.  It all seemed quite bohemian at the time.  

Lucy: A Valentino dinner in a hotel nightclub at Le Ritz Club, on rue Cambon in
Paris.  A sexy and fun way to punctuate the formalities of fashion week.  


What's your preferred mode of transportation?
Euan: Flying on Silverjet, the new discount business class airline.  Its founder, Lawrence Hunt, is a genius, and he puts on a great show, all the way to London and Dubai.

Lucy: My husband driving me in a Subaru Outback, surrounding by family and luggage.


Do you cook and, if so, what is your signature dish?
Euan: I love to cook but do not do so as well as my wife.  I'm gallant enough to let her do the cooking normally.  When I want to impress her, I can make a mean baked cod with cumin, coriander, turmeric and fresh garden peas.

Lucy: Yes. Suddenly it's all about roast lamb, Yukon gold potatoes and green beans for a late Sunday lunch in Bridgehampton.  Feels kind of grown up family type of meal, like we had growing up in England.


Coffee or tea?
Euan: Coffee: about twelve cups a day, I'm ashamed to admit.  As strong as possible.  Any way it comes, as long as there's no sugar in it.  I gave up for a while and felt great, but not great enough to do without it in the long term.

Lucy: Both. Normally skimmed cappuccino from Bonsignor on Jane Street or chamomile tea from Nonno Gourmet on Horatio Street.


For what will you be arrested (hypothetically speaking)?
Euan: I'm not a huge fan of the NYPD.  I know they do tons of good, but I hate the way they block the streets with their cars, arrogantly, and then throw their weight around, especially bullying cab drivers, who I love.  One day I'll point out an officer failing to use "courtesy, professionalism and respect" and one of them will take umbrage.

Lucy: For charging too much for children's clothes.  The kids will look really chic, though.


When it comes to parenting, who is the disciplinarian in the Sykes/Rellie household?
Euan: Me.  I'm the product of a 1970s and 1980s British boarding school education.

Lucy: The Dad of the family, Euan Rellie.  I'm trying but I'm still a soft touch.


What is the biggest difference between life in New York and life in London?
Euan: New Yorkers are more open, more ambitious and more shallow. Londoners are more loyal, better at dinner party conversation, but more sticky.

Lucy: More dinner parties in London, more fashion parties in New York.


What is your dream occupation (other than your own)?
Euan: Prime Minister of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland.  Isn't going to happen.

Lucy: Wouldn't be bad being a movie star, or maybe hosting a TV show.


Who do you admire?
Euan: Myself, mainly.

Lucy: Kate Spade, Liz Lange, Vera Wang, Glenda Bailey and Anna Wintour, to name
a few.


What never fails to make you cry?
Euan: Kids’ movies when watched on airplanes.

Lucy: Yes, watching Polar Express lying in a bed full of kids.


When are you happiest?
Euan: When my wife kisses me.

Lucy: On Mecox Road in Bridgehampton, sitting in front of the fire, with the first snow of winter falling outside, listening to my husband read Pinocchio to the boys.

Stay tuned next week for Random Questions For...Nina Garcia.

December 10, 2007

Olivier Theyskens' Love Note To Fashion

On Friday night, designer Olivier Theyskens told the crowd who'd gathered to hear him speak at the French Institute Alliance Francaise in Manhattan that his creative process most often begins with drawing (which he repeatedly declared his first love). After the casual, far-ranging conversation - the last in a series entitled Fashion Talks with Pamela Golbin - ended, a few lucky guests were given a truly memorable souvenir: a small white notebook full of Theysken's sketches of the Nina Ricci spring/summer 2008 collection, complete with handwritten notes from the designer himself. Here, a selection of our favorites. And for more coverage on the Theyskens' event, visit UK Vogue.com.

Illustrations © Olivier Theyskens/Nina Ricci, reprinted courtesy of Nina Ricci

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December 07, 2007

Hello, Helmut: Lang Opens Store in MPD

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Oh, happy day! Andrew Rosen has opened a Helmut Lang shop in the old Girlshop space on Washington Street in New York's Meatpacking District. Rumor has it the store is just a temporary location, while Rosen & co. search for a permanent space in Manhattan from which to showcase the masterfully minimalist collection, which is now being designed by ex-Habitual duo Michael and Nicole Colovos.


Photos © The Fashion Informer

December 05, 2007

Fashion Holiday Cards: Get 'em While They're Haute!

The Fashion Informer's favorite up-and-coming fashion illustrator, Lana "Nice matters!" Frankel (who is responsible for all the illustrations on this site, including my About page portrait), has completed a series of five fashion-inspired holiday cards.

Here's a sampling of what's on offer. If you'd like to place an order, please contact Lana via her website, http://lanafrankel.com/. (And yes, Lana. Nice does matter!)


Illustrations © Lana Frankel, 2007

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December 04, 2007

Bleecker Street Holiday Windows

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Seems like Santa came early to Bleecker Street this year. The day after Thanksgiving, in fact.

We were still digesting our turkey and cranberry sauce and were out for a post-holiday perambulation when what to our wondrous eyes did appear? It looked like St. Nicholas soon would be here. We glanced to the left. We glanced to the right. But, alas, Santa's sleigh was nowhere in sight.

Instead we saw swans in the window at Marc. At Ralph Lauren, the garland seemed to glow in the dark. There were wreaths at Brunello, shiny baubles at Fresh. But oddly, no retailer displayed a creche. There were trees in most stores - lots of twinkling lights, too - and more than one disco ball (at Christmas? Who knew?). A plea for peace rang from the men's windows at Marc. Which was largely ignored by the bums in the park. Red ribbons swathed dress forms at Juicy, it's true. And at Cynthia Rowley, there were gold dresses. Two!

But the best Christmas message was delivered with wit (but that's hardly surprising from Lulu Guinness, a Brit). Instead of the usual presents and bows, the tinsel and trimmings and God only knows, the Guinness boutique was the one not to miss. For she sealed her holiday wish with a kiss.


Photos © The Fashion Informer

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