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May 2008

May 28, 2008

Phootlery Sandals = One Well-Heeled Traveler

CoverFINAL2 With summer comes summer travel, accompanied by the age-old issue of how to cram as many stylish looks into one stylish carry-on as possible (a predicament that’s become even more pressing with the new $15-per-checked-bag fee being instituted by some US airlines).

Happily, we recently discovered a new shoe line that seems tailor made for jet setting fashionistas who prefer to travel light.  Called Phootlery, these stylishly strappy sandals are ingeniously designed with a series of hidden bra strap-like hooks that allow you to detach the upper from the sole, so you can easily go from a casual daytime look to a seriously dressy evening shoe in a snap - and everything packs flat.

I was traveling a lot and packing shoes was always my biggest challenge,” Phootlery designer Chris Ann Phelan told The Fashion Informer of her inspiration for the line, which she launched in 2006.  “I needed both casual and dressy shoes, but I also didn’t want to be limited to just one pair for each occasion. It just wasn't satisfying. Flip flops are easy to pack, but design wise, they’re too basic. I felt that there was a need for something special.”

After taking a shoe design class at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Phelan – who has a Master’s in retail management from NYU and has worked as a Broadway costume designer, assistant to Zang Toi, technical designer at J. Crew and retail strategist for chains such as Gap, Inc. – had her “aha” moment in 2004, having already tried and discarded about 10 different closures for her work-in-progress line.

While getting ready to go to go out one night and wearing a strapless dress, I was converting my bra and it dawned on me that [this system] would work for my sandals.  I was late that evening for the party mocking up the strap!”

Two years, several prototypes and one “interchangeable footwear system” patent later, Phootlery was officially born.  

Today, the collection, which Phelan has dubbed “couture for the foot,” consists of six different sole options (in chocolate brown, silver or gold leather) and twice as many uppers (in bright jewel tones and beaded leather, fringed suede, metallic mesh and even clear PVC), allowing clients to mix and match to their hearts’ content. 

For fall, Phelan says she’s “jumping on the sustainability wagon and will incorporate ‘green’ items such as recyclable leather and vegan pieces” into the line, which retails from $200-$340.

And in keeping with her “couture for the foot” ethos, clients can even book a one-on-one appointment in Phelan’s Grammery Park studio to design their own one-of-a-kind sandals. 

“Clients want something unique,” she says. “And the choices really are endless!”

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May 27, 2008

Random Questions For…Theodora Richards

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“4 Stroke was a brand new company and they were just starting out and they were looking for somebody that was just starting out as well, and it just so happened to be me!”

So explained fashion-rock progeny Theodora Richards (daughter of model Patti Hansen and Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards) on how she came to be Vice President of Creative Direction for the New York based “music inspired” premium denim label, 4 Stroke Jeans.

“Now I have this title, which is so official sounding, it’s ridiculous,” added the whippet thin, surprisingly grounded blond who has, until recently, been making her living as a model (as does her younger sister, Alexandra).  “I’m kind of freaked out by it, but it is incredible and by having that role I’m just so much more vocal with what’s going on with the designs. You know, a lot of [famous] people go and get involved in the business and they just sit back and let everybody else do it for them, but these guys have such a good vision and they really want me to be a part of it, so it’s working out perfectly.”

Not least of which stems from Richards’ long time obsession with all things denim (what, you thought Keef’s kid would be swanning around in diamonds and fur?  Not bloody likely.)

“I have always loved jeans,” Richards told The Fashion Informer when we got her on the phone earlier this month.  “I used to wear Gap floral leggings, up until, like, seventh grade.  But there was this girl in my class and she would just wear denim in the coolest ways – she was the first to wear denim jackets, she sagged her jeans, she Bedazzled things.  She made me fall in love with jeans then and I’ve just been trying to carry on the tradition ever since. So yeah, jeans and me, we go together like peanut butter and jelly.”

When not designing denim, Ms. Richards likes to spend her time listening to obscure music, drinking super spicy tea and scanning the skies for NC-17 cloud formations.

So, Theo…

What’s your favorite off duty activity?

Well, I’ve been trying to become a part of The Cloud Appreciation Society.

Is that a real thing?

Yes, it is, actually.  This eccentric Englishman and his wife have begun this society and you get your number and you send in your pictures of what you’ve seen in the clouds and if it’s a really decent picture, you can have it put in a book. I’ve been trying to get more involved because I do love and appreciate clouds.  So that’s my off duty hobby.

I love it.  Is there a favorite cloud shape that you’ve seen?

I have seen some pretty amazing things, but some are kind of dirty, so I will leave them to the imagination.

Ok, then.  What’s in current rotation on your iPod? 

Well, at the moment, I’ve been listening to Jimmy Durante and Otis Redding.  Of course, that was just today.

Did Jimmy Durante sing, I thought he was a comedian?

Yeah, he has a few songs.  You know, it’s actually really strange, a lot of those old comedians put out a few records.  Or, like, Louis Prima, even though he’s a true blue horn player, he did some really funny songs, like ‘what do you think I’m made out of, lasagna?’  Things like that, I love because I love to laugh while I’m listening.  And I listen to this [collection] Hello Children Everywhere,which is all of these amazing children’s songs that go from Peter Sellers singing with Sophia Lauren to some really great stuff that’s odd. I wish that I could spread it out to the world.  It’s actually a lot of British children’s songs, with a few Americans, like the red head guy, Danny Kaye. I really like tapping into the stuff that nobody’s heard of.

Coffee or tea?

Tea.  I live close to Balthazar and they do this amazing really, really gingery tea that kind of burns when it goes down it’s so gingery.  And English tea is always great; English breakfast always does it.

Do you have any hidden or unusual talents?

Um, you know, the thing when people can turn their tongues into shapes?  I taught myself to do the hotdog, you know, the one you when you fold your tongue like a hot dog.  And I can hula-hoop really, really well for a long time.  I won a competition at Tortilla Flats.

Tell me about your favorite pair of jeans.

Well, there’s this pair by 4 Stroke called the Clutch that have a really gorgeous layered pocket in the back and a zipper that goes down the back of the shin so you can either have a flair or it can be super tight. I love that jean.  And then there’s one called the Roseland, which is a skinny that looks good on every type of woman.  We’ve been dying them in these fluorescent colors - they’re gonna come out later on this year - and they’re incredible. 

What is your favorite method of communication?

You know, I have to say that I like writing a letter and sending it in the post, but that rarely happens, so…I have a Blackberry and it’s the easiest – and the only - way to get in touch with me these days.

What’s your favorite holiday?

I really like when we’re all together as a family and it seems like Christmas is really the time when everybody gets together.  This past Christmas, we had 75 family members in my house in Connecticut and it was amazing.  My mom was ecstatic, glowing; she loves when we come home.  Everybody’s having babies and, it was really awesome. My mom just redid the kitchen and she just was so excited to show it to everybody.  You know, we really enjoy each other’s company.

Tell me about your pets.

Oh, it’s been so funny, the story of animals in our household.  We’ve had Pumpkin and Ras, Pumpkin is a shortbread Labrador, blond, and she’s about nine, 10 years old now.  Rasputin might be a year younger or a year older, we’re not sure, but we got him from Russia when dad was on tour and he just followed into the stadium where they were performing and this woman who was an avid dog lover, saw that he was being treated badly by the security guards and took him into my father’s room and said please take him home and my dad fell in love with him instantaneously and he’s been with us ever since. He is a little black Terrier Poodle mix - he kind of looks like Toto, with what looks like my dad’s hair on the top [of his head].  He’s small, and he’s amazing, and he loves my dad. We’ve had our cat forever - he’s such a great hunter - and we’ve got two French Bulldogs that are sisters, black and white, and they’re called Etta James, or Etta Bella Cow Pig, and Sugar. So they’re all flourishing, the family and the dogs.

What is your most treasured fashion possession?

Wow, that’s a tough one. I’m really sentimental with jewelry because I don’t really wear it that often. There was this pearl that my dad gave me for my graduation when I was 18 that’s from Japan and it’s like the size of a marble; it’s so beautiful.  It’s on clasp so I can turn it into anything, but I wore it as a necklace.  I haven’t worn it since my graduation because I’m terrified of losing it, so I let my mother hold onto it.

What was your nickname in childhood and what’s your nickname now?

It’s always been Theo, everybody just shortens it.  And then I’ve been called Teddy and Theodorable, which is so cute and I love it.  Coach Reilly gave me that; he was my teacher when I was, like, five years old.

What’s the greatest or most important lesson that your parents taught you?

Um, treat people the way, you know, not even the way that you’d want to be treated because that’s almost selfish, but…I’ve never been judged by my parents and I will never judge another.  So I think they taught me that, and then manners are always fantastic, so I definitely thank them for teaching me my skills and politeness. And respect.  You know, just being a good person, really.  They’ve been so wonderful.  I hope that I can do this for my kids.

Theodora and Alexandra vs. Mary Kate and Ashley: who would win in a fight?

Oh God, I think that anybody would say me and Alexandra, just because those girls are tiny.

What never fails to make you cry?

Dumbo, “Baby Mine.”  When I hear that song.

When are you happiest?

When I am around my family, definitely, in the sunshine. 

 

Stay tuned next week for Random Questions For…Duckie Brown.

May 15, 2008

Random Questions For...Rogan Gregory

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It’s been a busy month for Rogan Gregory. The man behind Loomstate, Rogan, a litl betr, EDUN (the eco-chic line he launched with Bono and Ali Hewson before saying sayonara earlier this year) and the home furnishings collection, ROGAN OBJECTS, just opened his second NYC store, called Rogan Bouwerie, and - seemingly in direct opposition to his claim to have “a weird anti-commercial thread” - partnered with Target on a limited-edition collection of jumpers, shift dresses and swimwear, which is currently available at Barneys New York in Beverly Hills through May 16 - 18, and will hit Tar-jay stores nationwide on Sunday.

The Fashion Informer nabbed a few minutes with the 2007 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner, in which the merry prankster from the Midwest applied tongue firmly in cheek and waxed poetic about his love of cheesy ‘70s music, furniture vs. clothing design and all things veal.

So, Rogan…


What's your favorite off-duty activity?
Hang gliding.

What did you do last weekend and what are your plans for this weekend?
Last weekend I went bungee jumping and this weekend I plan to roller blade if the weather is nice.

What's in current rotation on your iPod?
Michael McDonald, Todd Rundgren, The Electric Light Orchestra, Olivia Newton John.

What's your idea of a perfect meal?
Veal and foie gras.

What is your favorite book/author of all time?
"A Brief History of Time" by Stephen Hawking.

What's the first concert you ever went to?
M.I.A. in Sri Lanka with my teenage sweetheart.

Tell me about your favorite item of clothing or piece of jewelry and why it's so special to you.
My high school graduation ring (actually it’s not mine, I stole it from a friend. Everyone thinks I graduated but I never did.)

Brunch: pro or con?
I prefer Dunch.

Any tips for posing on the red carpet?
No.



Do you cook? If so, what's your speciality?
Veal Parm.

When was the last time you rode public transportation - and do you 
remember what line and where you were going?
I rode the A to Far Rockaway.

Tell me about your pet(s).
They are furry. They love veal.

What's the biggest difference (in your approach) when designing clothing vs. furniture?
One people sit in and one people sit on.

What freaks you out?
Veal.

What never fails to make you cry?
The senseless killing of baby calves.

BONUS QUESTION: Please complete the following sentence: If John
McCain wins the election
I will have a dinner party and serve veal.


Stay tuned next week for Random Questions For…Theodora Richards.

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May 08, 2008

Random Questions For...Anna Sheffield

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Anna Sheffield came to jewelry making through the back door. That is to say, after studying blacksmithing, welding and fabrication at the Academy of Art in San Francisco, where she received a degree in Fine Arts.

These sculptural techniques are the hallmark of Bing Bang, the line of jewelry she launched in 2002 with her brother, Kevin Kearny, which turns Victorian-meets-heavy metal iconography into something a tad more feminine. (The name Bing Bang actually refers to the sound an anvil makes when it strikes metal.)

The New Mexico native added a fine jewelry line, called Anna Sheffield Fine Jewelry, in 2007 – the same year she was nominated for a CFDA Swarovski Award – and she’s collaborated on jewelry collections with Phillip Lim, Lutz & Patmos and Marc Jacobs (with whom she shares an affinity for statement-making tattoos).

Today, Bing Bang has expanded to include handbags, belts and men’s accessories (think: skull cufflinks and brass money clips). And the 34-year-old Sheffield shows no sign of slowing down, as witnessed by her recent stint as a guest blogger on the New York Times style site, The Moment, and her collaboration with Cole Haan, for whom she designed a collection of decorative clasps, closures and jewelry elements for shoes and handbags, which will launch this Fall.

The Fashion Informer grabbed a few minutes with the New York-based designer to gab about life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness (hint: it can be found on a mesa in New Mexico).

So, Anna…

What's the most unlikely place you've ever found inspiration?
Probably in sadness. But truly I find inspiration in just about everything I happen upon. I’m lucky that way!

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?
I would never worry about things I cannot change.

What did you do last weekend, and what are your plans for this weekend?
I was on an amazingly pristine island in Thailand called Koh Lanta with my brother, his gal and my sweetheart! This weekend I’ll be in my studio working to make up for it.

Who do you consider the most underrated designer, living or dead?
I think there have been a lot of artists whose work went uncelebrated in their lifetimes, far too many to mention really. But no designers come to mind. I see so many talented people in New York and abroad these days, all deserving of success and getting it. I think this is a bountiful time in art and culture. I liken it to the Dada movement.

What is your favorite art form: music, books, film or theater?
I couldn’t begin to choose a favorite. I am equally enraptured by the ephemeral nature of music and the tangible arts like sculpture and painting. The directness and strength of film and photography never cease to amaze me - and I love to read.

Favorite work of art from your aforementioned fave art form?
Lately I am in love with Walton Ford’s stunningly beautiful paintings, M. Ward’s cover of “Let’s Dance,” and I just read “The Invention of Everything Else” [by Samantha Hunt], which was a lovely little story.

What is your favorite memory of summertime from childhood?
We used to spend part of the year in San Carlos, Mexico on the Sea of Cortez. Those were the best summers as we (my brothers and I) could play in the ocean to our hearts content - sailing, swimming, and harassing the various flora and fauna.

What initially drew you to jewelry (and now handbag) design?
It was a simple side step from making sculpture. I was working in both large scale steel and bronze metal fabrication, as well as making pieces in miniature from silver, copper and mixed materials. Making jewelry was a way to implement my metal-smithing skills and creative energies without the depth and time involved in producing fine art. I am happy making things in general. I have been since as far back as I can remember.

What would be your dream creative collaboration?
I have had so many dream collaborations already! I have had the pleasure of working with Douglas Little, Marc Jacobs, Lutz & Patmos, Phillip Lim and most recently with the wonderful team at Cole Haan. The next great adventure for me would definitely be to work on larger scale collaboration such as sculpture or furniture design. I don’t have my sights on any specific person or group, but who knows what the future holds!

Tell me about your favorite pair of shoes.
It would be my tried and true favorites: off-white great Gatsby-ish pumps from Chie Mihara. I have had them forever. And even though they look a little less than perfect these days, I still feel most myself when I wear them.

What's the one beauty/grooming item you can't live without?
I’m not too prissy of a girl but I can’t live without a good face lotion. Stella McCartney’s skin care line is my current obsession.

Who do you admire?
My mom, my brother, my friends (of whom I gratefully have many), my peers in this crazy and amazing industry. So many artists, past and present. Anyone who ventures to build something of their own volition. Bees.

When was the last time you rode public transportation?
I ride the subway everyday. I take the N/R, F/V and L mostly as they take me to and from work in Brooklyn, the jewelry district and my apartment near the Bowery.

What would you like to be doing if you weren't an accessory designer?
I want to learn to play the harmonica.

When are you happiest?
When I’m so absorbed in making something that I scarcely notice anything else. Being on a mesa looking out over the desert in New Mexico. And when in the presence of the people I love.


Stay tuned next week for Random Questions For…Rogan Gregory.

May 05, 2008

Met Museum's "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy" Preview

Tonight, of course, is the annual Costume Institute benefit gala starring super Hollywood heroes like George, Julia, Mary-Kate and Ashley.

This morning's press preview was an affair for mere mortals, who rubbed elbows with fashion superstars Giorgio, Anna and the like. Here, a few shots to tide you over til the exhibit officially opens on Wednesday, with additional coverage posting on Vogue.com tomorrow morning.

Photos © The Fashion Informer/Lauren David Peden

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