The Fashion Informer

Christie's Auctions David Bailey's Roman Polanski/Sharon Tate Portrait

Got an extra $8,000-$12,000 lying around?  If so, this 1969 photo of Roman Polanski and Sharon Tate - reprinted in 1988 and signed by photographer David Bailey - could be yours (Christie's is auctioning it off in New York on Monday, December 7th).  See you there! 

Image courtesy Christie's

Bleecker Street Holiday Windows

 

So turkey day has come and gone, and that can only mean one thing: It's time for Bleecker Street stores to unveil their holiday windows. This year's West Village widow displays run from the gamut from the whimsical (Jack Spade's Abominable Snowman, Little Marc's stuffed animal igloo party) to the elegant (Ralph Lauren Women is a winter wonderland personified, Leo Design's garlanded window showcases both antique furniture and of-the-moment Filson bags). There's also the traditionally festive (Ovando's ornaments, Marc Jacobs' Christmas trees and snowmen, Alexis Bittar's bows and candy canes) and the somewhat spooky (Cynthia Rowley's dripping black store windows, which were done in homage to Tim Burton). Hopefully, the latter isn't a prescient prediction about the state of holiday retail sales (the horror! the horror!).  

Photos © The Fashion Informer/Lauren David Peden

   

  
 
   
 
   

 

ARC NY’s Model of Achievement

ARC NY is a new kind of talent pr agency: one that’s devoted to helping supermodels navigate all the offers that come their way in order to better develop and nurture the model’s personal brand. 

Founded by Ryan Brown, a former marketing director for Elite Model Management, and Lorenzo Martone, a strategic planner at Chandelier Creative, ARC NY already counts Lydia Hearst, Julie Henderson, Jessica White, Alessandra Ambrosio, Fernanda Motta and Valeria Mazza as clients.

The partners are dedicated to keeping things small – they say ARC will top out around 10 clients at any given time – and, while equally charming and business savvy, they clearly play off each other’s personal and professional strengths.

“I have the experience in the modeling industry but Lorenzo is the perfect complement to me in that he’s very strategic and can just sit [the girls] down and be like, ‘No, that’s not a good idea,’” Brown told The Fashion Informer over lunch in Soho.

“And Ryan has this perfect-for-daily life, very caring side that is very much appreciated by the girls, and he’s very close to them,” countered Martone. “I think because of my strategic background working with brands, I’m a little more straightforward. Because I don’t come from the modeling industry I’m sort of an outsider so I can look and say, well, of all of those ideas that you have or proposals that you received, let’s find the common thread and promote the best idea in a logical, strong way that will build into something for the future.”

To this end, Ryan and Martone begin by sitting their clients down for a frank discussion about their five-year plan and long-term dreams and goals and then help them figure out how to achieve said goals in a thoughtful, strategic and – most importantly – sustainable way.

“It’s all about developing the right team around these models and then building them into something more,” said Brown of the duo’s branding efforts, which are done with the full collaboration and support of each girl’s modeling agent.

So with ARC NY’s assistance, Jessica White is exploring a second career as a singer/songwriter, Julie Henderson is developing a grapefruit-based skincare line and Lydia Hearst is branching out into acting (she’s already appeared on Gossip Girl and starred in Miles Fisher’s “This Must Be the Place” video and “Fame Fatale,” a short film for Tara Subkoff’s Bebe line).

And while the idea of a model-slash-musician-slash-actress-slash-skincare maven may have more cynical fashion fans rolling their eyes, the ARC boys are quick to point out that they only champion an endeavor that is a true, heartfelt passion of their client, and that they believe has a real chance of succeeding.

“There are different aspects to every person,” said Brown. “We’re just helping them to develop those aspects.”

Photo above © The Fashion Informer/Lauren David Peden; images below courtesy Lorenzo Martone

 

Random Questions For…Eugenia Kim

Becoming a milliner was a natural choice for designer Eugenia Kim because, as she explained it, “I'm impatient and a control-freak; hats are easy to make by yourself and you can make them quickly in under an hour.” 

The Type-A Kim launched her line of quirky toppers in 1998 after leaving Allure magazine, where she worked in the editorial, not fashion, department.  Within a week of leaving her day job, Kim – who had made her first hat in an attempt to keep her then-shaven head warm, not with the intent to start a business – had orders from several stores, including Bond 07 and Selima Optique.  A month later, she was in Barneys New York and a year after that, Kim had opened her own shop in the East Village, selling her men’s and women’s hats, along with a more surrealist couture and bridal collection.

She launched a shoe line in 2004 and today, Kim’s creations are sold in Barneys, Saks, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and more than 100 boutiques worldwide - and she’s seen her hats grace the heads of Jennifer Lopez, Cameron Diaz, Madonna, Eve and Nicole Kidman, among others.

Last week it was announced that Kim is releasing a limited-edition hat collection for Target, set to debut next April.  In the meantime, The Fashion Informer nabbed a few minutes with the effervescent designer to talk turkey (literally and figuratively).

So, Eugenia…

 

What is your favorite street in New York City?
Fourth Street—I have lived on this street for years and I know so many people who live on Fourth Street. 

Beverage of choice?
Diet Coke.

What’s your favorite guilty pleasure TV show?
Gossip Girl.

What websites do you read on a regular basis?
Gawker.com, Perezhilton.com; I like the snarky take on current events and gossip.

Tell me about your pet(s).
I had a tough little toy poodle named Cottonball Kim who I liked dressing up in biker outfits.

What form of exercise do you love?  Loathe?
I like anything competitive or games and winning- my favorite is tennis. I don't like yoga.

How old were you when you found out there was no Santa Claus?  Who told you?
I was 7 years old. I figured it out myself.  My mom was acting all shady about SC and I just knew.

Favorite Thanksgiving memory?
I remember our Korean Thanksgivings where we ate kimchee and rice alongside turkey and gravy and stuffing. It was always kind of gross when the two mixed on the same plate, like kimchee and gravy, gross but kind of good!

Do you cook?  If so, what’s your signature dish?
No, I'm really a bad cook. I'm ok at making kimchee bokum bap though (that is kimchee fried rice).

Do you remember who gave you your first kiss?  Do you know where he/she is today?
Yes and no.

You’ve mentioned that you’re accident-prone.  How so?
I fall on my face a lot and sometimes I mess up a hat, and then have to figure out how to make the accident look good. My accident-proneness forces me to be constantly creative. 

What’s your favorite movie of all time?
I don't know; it’s hard to choose one.

How would you like to be remembered?
Laughing.

What makes you nervous?
Rats in NYC and the gray zone - I like things black and white. 

When are you happiest?
When I'm creating or around my family.

 

Stay tuned next week for Random Questions For…Chris Benz

Informed Obsession: Equinox Greenwich Ave

Yes, this is a fashion site.  But what’s more fashionable than looking and feeling your best in everything you wear?  Not much.  Which is why we’ve been obsessed with the Equinox flagship at Greenwich Avenue since it opened back in 2002.  From the spacious, recently renovated layout (five floors, most awash in natural light) to the state-of-the-art equipment to the top-notch trainers and classes (Patricia Moreno’s Inten-Sati is a particularly grueling fave), this is as haute as an off-the-rack club gets (for more bespoke training, we’d recommend the E-Elite Training Program at Equinox’s Columbus Circle facility, which we did a few years back with great results).  But Equinox Greenwich Ave is where we go most days to rev up for the marathon that is Fashion Week, work off those extra Boom Boom-induced calories and stay slim enough to fit into our favorite Rick Owens. And when we’re sweating it out on the treadmill or doing yet another set of dips and feel our motivation slipping, we have only to look around the room and see stylish – and uber fit – members like Liya Kebede, Liv Tyler, Gretchen Mol and Keri Russell getting their sweat on, and we’re inspired to keep on keepin’ on.

Images courtesy Equinox

  

Live From New York, it's Victoria's Secret

As promised, here's our coverage of last night's Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, with a surprise catwalk turn by new mom Heidi Klum, who just had her fourth child six weeks ago.  We should all be so genetically blessed.  

The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show will air December 1st on CBS.

Image courtesy Vogue.co.uk

 

Camilla Staerk Cuts a Rug

Camilla Staerk might’ve taken a hiatus from showing during New York Fashion Week in September, but that doesn’t mean she’s taken a hiatus from fashion. Far from it.

This month, she launched Staerk Signature, a collection of the pieces she’s best known for (you know, the ones clients ask for again and again, like her leather peak-waist pencil skirt and liquid jersey racer-back tank).  She’s edited Staerk Signature to eight core pieces per season – including, for fall, an oversized tux shirt, peplum belt, tank dress and Swiss dot t-shirt – in her signature hue (black), with plans to add white and a few archival prints down the road.

“My idea with Signature is to keep building it around a close communication with and feedback from my loyal clients,” Staerk told The Fashion Informer over brunch in Soho.  “People have often asked me to re-introduce the styles that they have been so happy with in the past and in which they would like to invest in again - or maybe they never got the chance to purchase these at the time. Now felt like the right time to launch Signature as its own entity, and be able to continuously offer, expand on and update my popular styles from across seasons.”

Also on the drawing board: a collaboration with Normann Copenhagen’s New Danish Modern line, which reinterpreted the African print Spine dress from Staerk’s spring 2009 collection (inspired by her favorite muse, Karen Blixen) into a strikingly graphic rug. 

“I have always hoped to one day also design for the home, so doing this rug was a very welcome challenge,” said Staerk. “Designing this rug felt like a natural process, and I so enjoyed being able to apply my vision to a different media than usual.”

“I wanted to aim for a result that would appeal to both men and women,” she added.  “Not too feminine, not too masculine - and not too loud either. I would not like a rug to take over the room.”

Like her clothing, Staerk’s rug is effortlessly elegant – and effortlessly cool.

Staerk is already working on additional home designs and plans to release her second Signature collection next summer.  In the meantime, she’s hard at work on two exciting new clothing and footwear collaborations, set to launch next year - though details are hush-hush (for now). Stay tuned, Staerk fans…

 

Images courtesy Camilla Staerk

  

Backstage at the Victoria's Secret Show

 

So tonight is the being billed as "the sexiest night of the year" by the Victoria's Secret fashion show folks (auf Weidersehen, Valentine's Day) and things were definitely heating up over at the Lexington Avenue Armory this morning, where we checked into the press tent to get a photo ID, made our way past a bomb-sniffing dog (yes, really), down a hallway past a display case full of Nazi memorabilia (yes, really), and up to the fifth floor, which is where the Angels starring in tonight's show where undergoing their transformation from drop dead gorgeous to, well, whatever's even hotter than drop dead gorgeous.  

And that's where we rubbed elbows (easy there, fellas) with Alessandra Ambrosio, Doutzen Kroes, Miranda Kerr, Behati Prinsloo, Chanel Iman, Caroline Trentini, Julia Stegner, Sessilee Lopez, Liu Wen, Anja Rubik, Isabeli Fontana, Rosie Huntington, Caroline Winberg and a slew of other A-list models, who'll be doffing their usual designer finery in favor of a pretty scanties and a pair of angel wings. 

No word yet on what host Heidi Klum will be wearing this year, though we're told she won't be sporting anything as lavish as the $12 million Victoria's Secret diamond and ruby bra she wore back when the economy was still as robust as her (ahem) assets.

But enough blah blah, here are some images from the scene backstage.  Our full show report will follow this evening.  Until then, enjoy!

Photos © The Fashion Informer/Lauren David Peden

   

Diesel: What the What?!

Ummm, could somebody please explain this to me?  Seriously, who at Diesel thought this was a good idea?  I mean, this guy's cute, but he is in desperate need of some manscaping.

Image courtesy Diesel/WWD

Lorenzo Martone and Ryan Brown Celebrate ARC NY

 

After announcing that they were founding ARC NY, a talent PR firm dedicated to repping models' off-the-runway endeavors (singing, acting, branding, endorsements, licensing deals and the like), former Elite marketing director Ryan Brown and Chandelier Creative consultant Lorenzo Martone celebrated with an intimate soiree in the new downtown digs they share with public relations whiz Georgia Mack's new start-up, Rio PR, which drew the likes of Olivia Palermo, Russell Simmons, Lydia Hearst, Alessandra Ambrosio, Julie Hendersen, Jessica White and Marc Jacobs (aka, Martone's fiance).  

We'll be covering their new venture in more detail in a few days, but in the meantime, here are some party pics. 

Images courtesy Lorenzo Martone/ARC NY

  

The British Are Coming! The British Are Coming!

Fittingly, it was a grey and drizzly day last Thursday, when eleven London-based designers hopped the pond to stage a daylong meet-and-greet in the penthouse of the Soho Grand Hotel, where they introduced their spring/summer 2010 collections to American press and buyers.

The well-organized event was hosted by London’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE), a business incubator that supports and nurtures emerging fashion designers via funding and mentorship programs (think of them as a more hands-on CFDA), and it drew the likes of Joanna Sykes, Meadham Kirchhoff and Michelle Obama’s latest label du jour, Peter Pilotto. 

In addition to Sykes’ luxury basics, Meadham Kirchhoff’s delicately deconstructed street chic, and the painterly sculpted creations of Peter Pilotto and his partner, Christopher de Vos, we were pleased to get an up-close-and-personal look at the tough luxe leather, lace and denim designs of Felder Felder twins, Daniella and Annette, who were inspired this season by twin muses: Fight Club’s Marla Singer and Madonna’s Blonde Ambition Tour.

Flame-haired Scottish native Louise Gray walked us through her colorful, wonderfully energetic collection (dubbed “Oh No, Babe, Sorry ‘Bout That” and inspired by 1980s London graffiti artists, with killer accessories designed in collaboration with stylist Judy Blame and trash bag shoes done with Nicholas Kirkwood), while Natascha Stolle reworked old-school fabrics – embroidered tweed, flock printed brocade, double-faced crepe – into thoroughly modern silhouettes. 

Hannah Marshall offered a fresh take on the eighties power look with architectural leather minis and sexy Lycra catsuits, Eun Jeong went in a more ethereal direction with her all white, lavishly embellished, 16^th century ballet-inspired collection (two pieces of which will be featured in Lady Gaga’s next video), and William Tempest looks poised to give Roland Mouret a run for his money, judging from the beautifully constructed leather-and-stingray corset dresses and impeccably contoured duchess silk jumpsuits he designed, which were inspired by the Crazy Horse in Paris and forties lingerie ads, resulting in an extremely powerful – and empowering – collection.

Aminka Wilmot design duo Maki Aminaka Lofvander and Marcus Wilmot looked to modern dance and a decrepit building outside London for an elegantly edgy collection awash in twisted, chain-draped, figure flattering shapes and moody prints that do, indeed, evoke charred wood, water-damaged fabric and peeling paint. All of it yummy - and all of it made and manufactured in London.

Also mining a tough-yet-tender vein is Jean-Pierre Braganza’s “Psychadelactica” collection; though he ventured a little further afield – outer space by way of Haight Ashbury, to be precise – before returning to earth bearing wondrous gifts. By which we mean Geiger-esque digital print dresses, leather paneled pants, a sensually slouchy fuchsia crepe blazer and razor-sharp black-and-white sheaths that make it clear that the future is now.

In fact, all of the designers we met at this showcase made us hopeful for the future of fashion. Bravo to the CFE for spearheading this stylish cultural exchange. 

Image of Jean-Pierre Braganza (above) © The Fashion Informer/Lauren David Peden.
All other images courtesy Alistair Guy. 

Sophie Theallet Wins 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund

And the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner is (drumroll, please): Sophie Theallet, who was nominated along with Alabama Chanin's Natalie Chanin, Ohne Titel's Flora Gill and Alexa Adams, George Esquivel, Gary Graham, Waris Ahluwalia, Simon Spurr and Wayne Lee. 

Theallet's prize: $200,000 plus a year of mentoring from an established CFDA designer. Runners-up Monique Péan (who designs jewelry) and Patrick Ervell (menswear) were each awarded $50,000. Congrats to all! 

And don't forget Alber Elbaz's words of wisdom, kids: "Success is like a bottle of perfume. Smell it - don't sniff it and don't drink it."

Image courtesy Norman Jean Roy/Vogue

“Geoffrey Beene: Trapeze” Exhibit Opens in Phoenix

 

“The unimaginable always becomes the unforgettable,” said Geoffrey Beene. The same might be said of Geoffrey Beene: Trapeze, a new exhibit at the Phoenix Art Museum that pays tribute to the late designer’s oeuvre.

Interestingly, the exhibit draws on a single source: the private collection of Patsy Tarr, founder of the magazine 2wice and longtime friend and client of Beene, with whom she shared a mutual love of dance. 

Showcasing 37 ready-to-wear and one-of-a-kind styles from the 1980s and 90s (including the quilted silk gown Tarr wore to the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute “Goddess” Gala in 2003), Geoffrey Beene: Trapeze also pays homage to the designer’s love of the circus - hence the abundance of ruffles, polka dots, bold graphic prints and the whimsical, suspended-from-the-ceiling clothing displays. In addition, Tom Kalin’s film, 30, a surrealist film noir commissioned by Beene in 1993, will play on a continuous loop.

“No part of a Beene wardrobe was ever out of style; indeed subsequent purchases simply revealed his ideas in more depth,” said Tarr. “And, of course, there was the originality, the wit, the materials and lightness. Beene’s clothes were masterly, unusual and rare.” 

"Geoffrey Beene: Trapeze" will be on view at the Phoenix Art Museum through March 7, 2010.

Images courtesy the Phoenix Art Museum

Watch Igor + André Fashion Illustrator Danny Roberts in Action

Igor + André illustrator Danny Roberts recently unveiled a painting of fellow blogger Julia Frakes (of bunnybisous.com fame), below.  Here's a video clip of Roberts in action.

Image courtesy Danny Roberts/André + Igor

Cate Blanchett is Back in Vogue

So how does Cate Blanchett feel about being Vogue's December cover girl?  See for yourself, below. You can find more shots from the story here.

Image courtesy Vogue

Informed Obsession: Abaco Paris Jamily Bag

Our search for the perfect handbag has come to an end.  Meet the Abaco Paris Jamily, a satchel of such perfection we thought we'd died and gone to heaven when we first spied it in Henri Bendel. Rendered in butter soft black, brown or grey lambskin with a python flap and discreet gold hardware, the Jamily has a roomy interior with two handy pockets and three additional pockets - two pouches and one zipped - beneath the flap (which is great for, say, a fashion journalist looking for a place to stash a notebook, camera and tape recorder). Best of all, the Jamily can be worn as a shoulder or cross-body bag - genius! - making it the ideal carryall for the stylish gal on the go.

Image courtesy Abaco Paris

Random Questions For...Carlos Falchi

Brazilian native Carlos Falchi is famous for his exotic skin bags, which come in sumptuous colors and sensuous shapes.  Falchi originally launched his line of luxe, one-of-a-kind accessories in the ‘70s after a stint as a costume designer for people like Elvis Presley and Mick Jagger, which helps explain the designer’s take-no-prisoners approach toward bold color and OTT embellishment (we mean that as a compliment, not a criticism).

“I love that each skin has their own unique story,” Falchi told us when asked why he opts to work with exotic skins and leather.  “What some would view as imperfections, I consider beautiful traces of history.”

Today, fashion fans who aren’t in a position to spend $4,000 on one of the designer’s signature bags can get their Falchi fix via his new HSN line, dubbed Chi by Falchi, and his just-launched limited edition collection for Target, which is in store through December 27th and riffs on his high-end shapes and materials but at more wallet friendly ($20-$50) prices.

“Every woman deserves a beautiful, unique bag of her own, no matter what the price,” said Falchi of the Target range. “For every bag I design, I make sure to keep that in mind.”

Duly noted.

The Fashion Informer also chatted with the bearded Brazilian about his Ping-Pong obsession, his favorite music and his dream occupation (hi-ho, Silver!).

So, Carlos…

What is your favorite time of day?
Morning. I like to go out into the city in the morning when no one is around so I can appreciate the stillness and colors. I am most creative in the morning. 

What type of music do you listen to while working?
Rock n Roll and Brazilian jazz.

What would you like to be doing if you weren’t a designer?
I'd like to be a Brazilian cowboy.

What is your favorite Thanksgiving memory?
I love special holidays because I am with my family.
 
What is the difference between living in Brazil and America?
I feel at home in both Brazil and America.
 
What would you never be caught dead wearing?
A leisure suit.
 
Tell me about your best friend.
Missy, my wife of 25 years.
 
What’s your favorite mode of transportation?
I love to ride my bike.
 
Favorite sport to watch?  To play?
Soccer and Ping-Pong.

How has New York changed since you first moved here?
New York is ever changing and I have been able to be a part of each new cycle. I have been able to experience every decade from the ‘60s on and it has been an incredible adventure.

What’s your idea of a perfect vacation?
Building castles on the beach and painting.

What freaks you out?
Global warming.

When are you happiest?
When I’m designing.

Stay tuned next week for Random Questions For…Eugenia Kim

   

Photos courtesy Target

Best Designer Blogs

Given the unbridled creativity of most fashion designers, it should come as no surprise that they would adopt the internet as yet another outlet for their flights of fancy and a way in which to share their vision with fans.  Avid Twitterers Rachel Roy, Diane von Furstenberg and Alexander McQueen all clearly enjoy connecting with people, mano-a-mano.  

And then there are the growing number of designer-helmed blogs, the best of which are as wonderfully unique and idiosyncratic as the designers themselves. Whether they’re sharing snapshots from their latest road trips (Toms' Blake Mycoskie), inspirations and birthday parties (Vena Cava), introducing us to the folks who work in their studio (Aimee G), offering fall fashion tips (Loeffler Randall) or hipping us to some great new music while bitch-slapping Karl Lagerfeld for his uncharitable attitude toward full-figured gals (EDUN), these blogs offer a highly personal - and largely unedited - look into the designers’ lives and minds.

Cynthia Rowley’s blog presents a short film and takes fans inside her New York Public Library sewing circle, Ruffian offers fans a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the making of their spring 2010 collection, John Bartlett gives us a list of his favorite things each month, including his new favorite Irish bar and the iconic JB cable knit merino sleeve scarf, which is shown on a yummy hunk of man candy (thanks, John!).

Anna Sheffield’s website, meanwhile, has not one, not two, but four blogs grouped by category - Anna’s blog,  Muse, The Studio and, our favorite, Oscar, which chronicles the adventures of Anna’s “nephew” (aka, her brother Kevin’s adorable Miniature Schnauzer).  Scott Sternberg also has multiple blogs, Boy for her and Band of Outsiders for him, both of which feature Sternberg’s celebrity pals like Marisa Tomei, Sarah Silverman, Zooey Deschanel, Jason Schwartzman and Mark Ronson clowning for the camera while wearing Boy/Band (what, you thought they’d be in BroBro?). 

Vivienne Westwood uses her blog, Active Resistance, to champion her political causes du jour (surprise, surprise), while the Toronto-based Beckerman sisters blog about their quirky outfits and DIY fashion projects and link to their Teen Vogue fashion week coverage.

Norma Kamali has used her blog to introduce her new iPhone app and enthuse about her love of Physique 57’s ballet bootcamp, while Diane von Furstenberg takes a break from Tweeting now and again to share links she loves, post from Moscow and Madrid (which is where her wallet was famously stolen), talk about her latest obsession (from Christopher Walken to Will Cotton) and favorite charitable causes, and offers fans an ever-changing list of things to eat, watch, see and explore.

When done well, as all of these blogs are, it really is like having a ringside seat to the designer’s life. Now, if we can just convince JC Obando, Rodarte, Tom Scott, Phillip Lim, Duckie Brown and John Galliano to start blogging, we'll be all set.

   

Sneak Peek at Katherine Fleming's Art Basel Bags

Here's a first look at the Katherine Fleming clutches re-imagined by artists Megan Marrin and KOLKOZ, which will be auctioned off, along with 15 other one-of-kind clutches, during Art Basel Miami.  

Images courtesy Katherine Fleming

T.J. Maxx: Forbidden SWAG

Saw this letter in today's WWD, and thought it was pretty interesting in light of the recent FTC kerfuffle about bloggers having to disclose when they receive (and cover) freebies, something the editors of mainstream websites and print magazines are not required to do (double standard, anyone?).  Are there really that many people sending gifts to employees of T.J. Maxx, Marshall's and AJ Wright?  And what the hell is AJ Wright, anyway?