The Fashion Informer

Informed Obsession: Duct Duct Goose

Duct Duct Goose wallets started as a hobby in 2010 after 10-year-old competitive swimmer Isabelle Seward suffered a concussion and need to find a quiet, meditative activity to do while recovering. "They were terrible at first, just big purses with a small credit card slot on the outside," she told The Fashion Informer. After several months of trial and error, the pint-sized designer perfected her technique. Soon after, friends and family were clamoring for her clever, one-of-a-kind duct tape wallets and—voila!—a DIY business was born. Made entirely by hand and featuring a wide range of designs (from bold racing stripes and sports insignia to various flora, fauna and animals), DDG wallets sell for $5-$9 online at Duct Duct Goose. During the summer, you can find the wallets—and their inspiring creator—on the Ditch Plains beach at Montauk, which is where I first discovered Isabelle, now 12, and her inventive wares. "I'm not one of those kids that buy a role of $4 tape and search online for how to make a wallet," she explained with pride. "I'm that kid that takes the time to get it right on my own. I was always against looking stuff up online because to me, it's equivalent to cheating. It's much more satisfying to say that you did it yourself then to say you used someone else's ideas." Out of the mouths of babes.

graphic by K Sarna

Introducing…Rauwolf

The Label: Rauwolf 
Based In: New York
Designed By: Kristine Johannes, a California-born designer who worked at John Anthony, J. Crew and Devi Kroell before launching Rauwolf in spring 2012. "I had worked in clothing for many years and came to realize the genius of cool accessories," Johannes told TFI. "Regardless of how you feel, you can wear simple pants and a shirt, and with the right clutch and shoes it becomes a fantastic ensemble." Upending preconceived notions about high-end evening bags was built into Rauwolf's business plan from Day One. "So much of the industry seemed to have settled into a comfort zone of simple designs in exotic skins," she said. "I wanted to create something different and unexpected looking, focused on innovation and use of unusual materials. I believe that a unique design is more precious than an expensive skin. Thus my collection of plexiglass clutches was born."
Looks Like: Nothing you've ever seen. About as far from the classic clutch as you can get, Rauwolf's sharp geometric shapes—modern, architectural and envelope-pushing—are fashioned from plexi and mirror and inspired by "chic women having drinks at an interesting bar in a David Lynch film" (for fall 2012) and "that woman’s mother, breaking her down into an aesthetic that is part doyenne of high society mixed with a touch of alien and a dash of Ziggy Stardust" (for spring 2013). In other words, this is not your mother's minaudière. But don't take my word for it. Solange Knowles, Anna Kendrick and Elizabeth Banks have all been spotted carrying Rauwolf clutches.
Sold At: Rauwolf retails from $1400 - $2300 and is sold at Barneys New York (beginning with Holiday 2012) and online at Rauwolf.

graphic design by K Sarna

TFI on Rue La La: Milan Fashion Week

What went down (the runway) at the Milan Fashion Week spring 2013 shows.

Happy Friday!

image courtesy NYBG

TFI on Rue La La: André Leon Talley's "Little Black Dress"

I recently had the privilege of attending the opening of the André Leon Talley-curated Little Black Dress exhibit at the SCAD Museum of Art in Savannah, which you can read about here.

Informed Obsession: Chelsea Paris Roselle Beatle Boot

 As the Fab Four sang, all you need is love. And, come fall, a good pair of boots that are comfortable enough to run around town in all day and chic enough to elevate your sartorial game. The Chelsea Paris Roselle delivers on both counts. A spirited update of the classic Beatle boot, the Roselle goes for around $495 and comes in a graphic black and white African-inspired print and a black leather-and-ponyskin combo. Both feature a sleek rounded heel and an asymmetrical lace-up detail for added élan. Cause while it's true that money can't buy you love, it sure as hell can get you one really cool pair of boots.

graphic by K Sarna

Introducing…Nonoo

 
The Label: Nonoo
Based In: New York City
Designed By: Misha Nonoo, who was born in Bahrain and raised in London before moving to Paris. Now based in Manhattan, Misha launched her namesake collection in fall 2011. "I didn’t study fashion design in a traditional sense," she recently told The Fashion Informer. "I would say that my schools were the streets of Europe and my books were magazines such as Vogue, Tatler and Harper's Bazaar. Growing up in the Middle East influenced my color palette and introduced me to a very vibrant world early on and living in London and Paris, I adopted a very tailored aesthetic, influenced by Savile Row tailoring. Being exposed to European fashion is what planted the idea of starting my own line. Even though aesthetically I knew where my line would take me, my entrepreneurial spirit guided me to the European business school in London where I studied International Business and French. The business background was all I needed to start my journey." Said journey includes the recent opening of an independent showroom in Soho and being awarded the 2012 FGI Rising Star award for women's ready-to-wear.
Looks Like: Refined, accessible and elegant, Nonoo designs are subtly glamorous with a strong emphasis on fit—and they're made entirely in Manhattan. "I love to create pieces that will live with a woman and not wear her, and I think that idea speaks to many women," says Misha. "I think polished and put together can also be fun, quirky and even daring." In practical terms, this translates to soigné Anouk Aimee-inspired pieces for fall 2012 (think: slinky silk blouses and well-cut coats and trousers). Spring 2013 was inspired by the crumbling luxury and eccentricity of Havana as seen in photographer Michael Eastman's Cuba series (lots of vibrant colors and faded wallpaper prints fashioned into fluid shorts and feminine day dresses). As for her ideal customer, the designer envisions "a woman who is young but polished, or more mature but still youthful. The woman I design for understands and is drawn to high quality tailoring and fabrics but doesn't take herself overly seriously." And if all goes well, expect a Nonoo accessories and home collection in the not-too-distant future.
Sold At: Nonoo retails from $300 to $2,500 and is sold at Bergdorf Goodman, Harvey Nichols, Gus Mayer, United Arrows and online at Shopbop and Nonoo.

graphic design by K Sarna

TFI on Rue La La: London Fashion Week

My favorite spring 2013 London shows, starring Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Roksanda Ilincic, Tom Ford, Louise Gray, Paul Smith, Burberry Prorsum, Peter Pilotto and more.

Happy Friday!

Style Smackdown: Norma Kamali vs. Tom Ford

Diane von Furstenberg and the rest of the CFDA may be lobbying Congress to prevent fashion piracy, but apparently Tom Ford didn't get the memo. On the left is Norma Kamali's Modern Sculpture dress, which she originally designed more than two decades ago. On the right, a strikingly similar dress from Tom Ford's spring 2013 collection. Yes, he's lengthened the hemline a bit, but the frocks are otherwise identical, from the high neck to the color to the idiosyncratic circular sleeves.  

What gives, Tom? We're used to high street stores like Zara and Target being the, err, target of copyright infringement suits (see: Proenza Schouler vs. Target, Wendy Brandes vs. Topshop and Anna Sui vs. Forever 21). Now hot on the heels of YSL vs. Christian Louboutin's year-long red-sole legal battle, which settled just this week in YSL's favor (boo!), comes this latest case of designer déjà  vu.

Ford's publicist denied requests for a comment ("Mr. Ford is unavailable, having just had a baby boy"). But even new parents shouldn't get a free pass when it comes to fashion plagiarism. Lucky for The Stubbled One, Norma Kamali sees Ford's circular dress do-over as more homage than intellectual property theft.

"I love his dress—and mine, too," Kamali said via email. "Lucky for me that this look feels right in the industry. To me, there are styles that are timeless, and this one has been in my my collection in different incarnations for over 20 years."

Guess imitation really is the sincerest form of flattery. 

1 = 1,000: MQuan Skull

Informed Obsession: Lori LaMont

 Art and commerce may no longer be strange bedfellows in the fashion world, thanks to folks like Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, Richard Prince, Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and Yayoi Kusama. But self-taught Long Beach, California-based painter Lori LaMont takes things to a whole new level with her series, "Under the Influence," which features large scale watercolors of colorful, delicately detailed animals emblazoned with designer logos (think: Fendi falcons, Chanel horses, Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs elk, a Lacoste lion and Burberry chickens). The paintings' titles—"For Love or Money," "The Status Symbol of the Competent Sportsman"—leave little doubt as to her everything-has-been-commodified message, which is an accurate, if sad, reflection of where we are now as a society. It is, like all great art, visually arresting food for thought.


graphic by K Sarna

Lauren David Peden on Exposed Zippers

I don't usually toot my own horn, but I really loved this profile Lisa Weiss did on me over at Exposed Zippers. Thanks, Lisa!

TFI on Rue LaLa: Spring 2013 Trends

From prison stripes to pencil skirts to exposed midriffs to 50 Shades of Leather Harnesses, here's what you'll be wearing (or avoiding) next season, straight from the New York Fashion Week runways. Let the crunches begin!

Happy Friday!

TFI on Rue La La: Fall 2012 Couture

Didn't make it to the Paris couture collections in July? Not to worry. I have the scoop right here.

Informed Obsession: Allen Stone

 For those who may not be aware, long before I was a fashion journalist I was a music writer (and a travel writer and health/fitness writer before that, but that's another story for another day). Music has always been a huge—and hugely important—part of my life, starting with my early love of Patti Smith, The Clash and Television and ending with…well, I'm currently loving Azealia Banks, Meklit & Quinn and Band of Skulls, though I don't foresee my passion for music ending until the day I draw my final breath. Which is a good thing, since there are so many amazingly gifted new musicians being discovered every day, in all the many genres that I love. Which brings me to my latest musical crush, Mr. Allen Stone. The son of a preacher man, 25-year-old Stone originally hails from Chelewah, Washington and now makes his home in Seattle. Part R&B singer, part crunchy granola hippie, Stone is a gifted songwriter blessed with a uniquely soulful set of pipes, which he puts to good use singing his own stuff and covering everyone from Bob Marley to Marvin Gaye to Chaka Khan. I recently saw him live at Highline Ballroom and was totally blown away by his chops and by his inclusive, fun-loving attitude (which you can see for yourself here,  here and here). And Stone introduced me to the Swedish artist Tingsek—one of his own personal favorites, who opened the show that night—for which I am eternally grateful. See? Music begets music begets music. It's a beautiful thing. 


graphic design by K Sarna

TFI on Dossier: Daniel Vosovic

Everything you ever wanted to know about designer Daniel Vosovic but were afraid to ask. For reals.

TFI on Rue La La: Ryan Babenzien

Boast co-founder Ryan Babenzien recently walked me through his idea of a perfect weekend, which involves Ind0-Row, the Santa Monica stairs and food, food and more food. 



graphic design by K Sarna

Happy Friday!