The Fashion Informer

Introducing…Nomi Network

The Label: Buy Her Bag Not Her Body
Based In: Cambodia
Designed By: Nomi Network bags are designed by Supei Liu (a former corporate retailer)  and produced by a collective of women who are survivors of sexual slavery and trafficking in Cambodia (the name Nomi is a phonetic interpretation meaning "know me, know my story, know my success"). "About three years ago, my friends and I teamed up to start Nomi Network together," the New York-based Liu told The Fashion Informer. "We believe that in order to prevent human trafficking and help the survivors get reintegrated back into their communities, a sustainable social model needs to be in place to create jobs. Since I've worked with products for the last 12 years, the Nomi Network business model fell naturally in place with my previous experience." One hundred percent of the profit from the sale of Nomi Network bags is reinvested into training and career development programs for women.
Looks Like: Cute totes, wallets, toiletry bags, cosmetic cases, iPad and laptop covers fashioned from locally-sourced recycled rice bags that are quilted and finished with decorative stitching and reclaimed lace. In addition to the grown-up styles, there's also an adorable—and very clever—children's backpack designed by Sitting Taller that holds kids' schoolbooks and other daily necessities, and comes with a Dacron-wrapped foam pad, allowing it to function as a booster seat when not in use as a carryall. "The beauty of our collection is a unique mix of the Nomi Network story and the collaboration between our volunteer design team here in the USA and the women producing them in Cambodia," says Liu. "The process of turning an old discarded rice bag into something pretty and functional again is almost like the process of watching how these women turn their lives around from victims to survivors." Nomi Network is launching a similar project in India later this year.
Sold At: The bags range from $12 to $78 and can be purchased online at Buy Her Bag Not Her Body. All proceeds go to training and career development programs for the survivors of sexual trafficking in Cambodia.

Introducing…Giejo

The Label: Giejo
Based In: New York
Designed By: Gabby Sabharwal. "The idea to create a swimsuit came about really as something that was initially just for me," said Sabharwal, who is a BCBG publicist by day, designer by night (Giejo is her childhood nickname). "I was looking for a new swimsuit for an upcoming vacation with my girlfriends.  We were going to St. Thomas to celebrate my 25th birthday and, of course, I wanted to look fabulous. I had always been drawn to the colorful prints of Missoni and the sleek silhouettes of Eres bikinis, but not to the price tags that came with them. The swimsuits available in my price range (think: VIX, J.Crew, Target, H&M, Ella Moss, Splendid, American Apparel) were so ordinary, and I always knew I could count on seeing another girl wearing the same one.  I thought why not make my own?" And that, dear reader, is what she did. 
Looks Like: Fun, cool and quirky, just like the woman who created them. "The collection is very reflective of my own personal style," said Sabharwal. "I love to layer and mix and match patterns and textures when I dress and I really kept that in mind when choosing the fabrics and prints for my suits. Of course, the colors were equally important but the fabrics were really where my story began.They had to be different and stand apart from what was on the market. They are not overtly sexy or over the top. They are trendy and interesting; fashion forward without trying too hard. My suits make a statement but are simple and flattering." So while the majority of Giejo swimsuits feature two-tone bottoms paired with contrasting tops (heavy on the stripes, florals, tie-dye and bold Aztec prints), the cuts are classic (bandeaus, triangle tops, boy briefs and side ruches bikinis). And pattern-phobes can match their top and bottom for a more traditional—but still uber-stylish—look. "The Giejo girl is fashion forward and wants to stand out," adds Sabharwal of her target customer. "She's aware of the trends but is also price conscious, and wants an affordable line that is fashionable and not mass market." Done and done. For summer 2012, Giejo is unveiling an exclusive collection for Barneys (set to hit stores later this month), and for spring/summer 2013, Sabharwal plans to introduce four new styles, along with a chic maillot and beach-to-brunch coverups.
Sold At: The Giejo collection retails from $76 for a bottom to $108 for a top. The collection is sold at Barneys New York and boutiques such as Dagny & Barstow, Creatures of Comfort and Dear Fieldbinder in New York, Madison in California, Tenet in South Hampton and the Surf Bazaar in Montauk, and online at Giejo.

Introducing…Claridge + King

The Label: Claridge + King
Based In: Tennessee and Texas
Designed By: Sisters Laurann Claridge and Lizbeth King, Connecticut natives—and granddaughters of NYC garmentos—who now reside in Houston and Nashville, respectively. They launched Claridge + King in 2008 with just one piece: the His is Hers button-down (a scaled down version of a classic men's shirt). "For years we pinched our boyfriend/husband/father's old button-down shirts to wear, but inherently there was always the conundrum of fit," said Claridge, who also serves as features editor for PaperCity and writes for national style mags such as Lucky (her sister, meanwhile, holds an MBA and is a former investment banker who's also raising three kids). "The men in our lives wore shirts that were either too boxy on us, the sleeves too long or the tails too short, hitting at the most unflattering part of your thigh. We decided to create a boyfriend shirt that felt like his shirt but that was made for her—one that could do double duty as both a nightshirt and a marvelously chic, throw it on piece over a mini, leggings, skinny jeans and cargos or a swimsuit. The idea was if people 'got it' and felt we were filling a void in their closet we would unroll more pieces with the same vibe." People immediately got it, and the line now includes several versions of the His is Hers shirt, dresses, a sleep and loungewear collection and a smattering of accessories.
Looks Like: The sexiest borrowed-from-the-boys pieces ever, cut to flatter a woman's figure. "While some of our silhouettes, like the His is Hers Shirt series, are obviously borrowed from his closet, we love the enduring style and attention to tailoring, materials and design often found in custom men's clothing and upper end men's ready-to-wear fashion," Claridge told The Fashion Informer. "The colors are also very much inspired by his closet as well, from rich grays, olives and blues to the crisp whites—hues that endure season to season." So in addition to the classic His is Hers collection (which includes crisp cotton button-downs, tuxedo shirts, shirtdresses and a very chic Bridal Shirt designed to be monogrammed with the bride-to-be's married initials and wedding date), C+K also offers traditional-with-a-twist peasant blouses, cotton pjs, easy-breezy dresses, reversible leggings, tunics and the Patch Sweater, a side slit cotton knit v-neck with leather patches running from wrist to elbow—all of which are destined become your favorite wardrobe staples. 
Sold At: Claridge + King retails from $35 to $260 and is sold at high-end boutiques and lingerie stores nationwide, and online at Claridge + King.

Introducing…Ann Yee

The Label: Ann Yee
Based In: NYC
Designed By: Ann Yee, who launched her namesake collection in spring 2010 after stints designing at Barneys New York, LaROK, Elizabeth and James, Alice + Olivia and contemporary knitwear label Duffy. "I wanted to create a line comprised of effortless and timeless pieces with an architectural edge," Yee told The Fashion Informer. "These styles would appeal to the customer not only because of the interesting details, but most importantly, the versatility." As for said customer, the Michigan native (and Philadelphia University alum) describes her muse as a busy urban dweller who doesn't follow trends "because she already has this innate sense of style that's so ahead of the curve. And she laughs—a lot."
Looks Like: Her ideal client may appreciate the lighter side of life, but there's nothing comical about Yee's creations, which are simultaneously structured and fluid, subtle and complex. Take the spring 2012 collection, which was inspired by Wang Qingsong's larger-than-life photograph, "Competition" from his 2011 ICP exhibit, When Worlds Collide. The result: strong yet feminine separates that marry subdued geometric shapes with soft fabrics that evoke a sense of movement even when the wearer is at rest. Likewise, her fall 2012 collection was inspired by "the textures, mystery and colorations" of caves but is anything but literal thanks to cozy oversized knits, asymmetrical dresses, a moody, painterly print and sexy winter shorts (which are fast becoming a Yee signature). "I've always wanted to help women feel confident and cool," she says of her raison d'être. "I think fashion is the most powerful form of self-expression."
Sold At: The Ann Yee collection retails for $160 - $500 and is carried at boutiques in the US, Japan and Australia, including American Two Shot, End of Century, Settlement Goods and Designs, Spirea and Rawmowe.

Introducing…Sally LaPointe

The Label: Sally LaPointe
Based In: Soho, New York
Designed By: RISD grad Sally LaPointe, who's made a name for herself just three seasons in as being Lady Gaga's go-to daywear designer. "Fashion was just something that I always gravitated towards. I think it was the drama of it all," says the Marblehead, Massachusetts native. "But I do think I am fulfilling all of my own personal creative expressions in what I do. I don't just create garments, I try to create a world around it as well." As for her ideal customer, LaPointe envisions "a woman who wants to appear strong, stylish, and controlled" and appear simultaneously "understated and bold." Hmm…. Sounds a lot like a certain meat dress-wearing pop star.
Looks Like: Modern, feminine, streamlined. Spring 2012 was inspired by the Renwick Ruins, an abandoned smallpox hospital on Roosevelt Island. "I wanted to evoked a feeling of something that once was, a sort of a haunted romanticism," says the designer. (Think: sharp geometric silhouettes in moody hues of chalk and granite offset by pops of chartreuse, digital decaying-bricks-and-flowers prints and dramatic runway makeup). For fall, her muse was Franz Kafka's The Metamorphosis, the infamous tale of a young salesman named Gregor who awakes one morning to find he's turned into a giant insect, which leads to neglect, isolation and, finally, his early death. "I wanted to tell a rich and embellished narrative, to evoke the emotion of transformation and loss," says LaPointe, who clearly shares Gaga's tongue-in-chic outlook of life. Sartorially, this translated into a softening of her angular cuts, with lots of cocoon-like capes and tunics, flowing skirts, hints of sparkle and inky, degradé fabrics that suggest change and transmutation. LaPointe also touched upon spring's peplum trend, as can be seen in the floor-length sheath Gaga wore to launch her Born This Way Foundation at Harvard University.
Sold At: The Sally LaPointe collection retails from $500-$3000 and is sold at Curve, Oak NYC, Church Boutique, Dalia's Studio, Lissa in Chicago and Rania's Corner in Egypt.

Introducing…Brandon Sun

The Label: Brandon Sun
Based In: New York
Designed By: Parsons-trained Brandon Sun (class of 2006 Designer of the Year), who cut his teeth at Calvin Klein, J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta before launching his namesake line in February 2011. "We launched the collection as a luxury fur accessories brand because I noticed there was a void in the market," the New York-born, New Jersey-bred designer told The Fashion Informer. "Customers these days are quite educated in what they buy and expect refinement, quality and detail. So I set out to make special pieces that would accentuate anyone’s closet. The pieces were versatile enough to translate as day-to-night especially since they all had multiple ways of being worn." So there are maxi dresses that go from 9-to-5 and beyond, tailored suiting and luxe sportswear, all with a furry flourish. When it comes to materials, Sun favors hand and machine knits, cashmere, silk, leather, shearling and some serious fur accents.  
Looks Like: "I like to think I have a very timeless, honest and zen approach to my designs," he says of his aesthetic. "It’s less about the bells and whistles and more about connecting to my customers. That's why I try to be direct and straightforward with my design decisions. Still, I like to have an air of mystery and an insouciant sense of style to the clothes. Sort of like easy, slouchy clothes disguised as proper serious clothes." For spring 2012, that meant exploring the concept of fun via drapey knit tees, gossamer scarves and cool quilted vests. Fall's "Silent Assassins" collection, which marked Sun's Lincoln Center debut, focused on modern cable knit sweaters, wide-legged flap-front trousers, long sheer skirts and crackled white leather jackets, all topped by edgy-elegant fox fur vests and chinchilla scarves.
Sold At: The Brandon Sun collection retails from $700 to $18,000, with most pieces in the $2,500 range, and is carried in department stores and designer boutiques worldwide, including Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Hirshleifer's, Louis Boston, Savannah, Boontheshop and online at Moda Operandi.

Introducing…Dezso by Sara Beltrán

The Label: Dezso by Sara Beltrán
Based In: Jaipur, India
Designed By: Mexico native Sara Beltrán, who spent 12 years working as a stylist in New York before launching her line of haute hippie jewelry in 2004. She moved to Jaipur in 2009 and travels the beaches of the world for inspiration for Dezso, which means "desire" in Latin. Beltrán was a 2012 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner.
Looks Like: The stuff urban mermaids' dreams are made of. Beltrán casts shells and shark teeth in 18k gold, strings fossilized shark's teeth on woven flamingo fluorescent cords (a Dezso signature), and fashions Polki diamonds, kyanite stones and other earthly delights into oceanic-inspired pieces that perfectly straddle the rugged/refined divide. "My jewelry is very sophisticated but understated at the same time," Beltrán told the Fashion Informer. As for her creative process? "Sometimes the materials lead the ideas, and sometimes the ideas lead me to the materials. I mostly source the stones in India, but as I travel around the world, I find inspiration for ideas and materials everywhere. This never stops; I am constantly looking around and being inspired." For fall 2012, she introduced a color changing garnet and pink coral in a collection presented on wetsuit-clad models during New York Fashion Week. Next up: "lifestyle pieces," such as furniture, pillowcases, a coconut-sandalwood scented candle and other housewares.
Sold At: Dezso by Sara Beltrán retails from $60 for a classic Mexican bracelet to $87,000 for a one-of-a-kind Polki diamond and rose gold shark fin cuff. The line can be found at specialty boutiques and department stores worldwide, including Barneys New York, Liberty London, Roseark, Twist, Surf Bazaar, Forty Five Ten, Aloha Rag, Libertine and online at Latitude and Dezso. Dezso by Sara Beltrán is also opening a pop up shop at Ron Herman Tokyo this fall.

Introducing…Pret-a-Surf

The Label: Pret-a-Surf
Based In: New York City
Designed By: Jillian Demling (entertainment editor at Vogue) and Karen Mulligan (studio manager for photographer Annie Leibovitz), who've been friends—and surf buddies—for 10-plus years. Frustrated by the lack of sophisticated women's surf gear on the market, they decided to create their own and in 2010, Pret-a-Surf was born.""Everything was all logo'ed out, hot pink, or had big psychedelic or Hawaiian flowers on it," the duo told The Fashion Informer of the fateful shopping trip that inspired them to launch the line, which is made in New York. But their collection is designed with all women in mind, not just those who hang ten. "We wanted to make stuff that actually fit well and looked good regardless of whether you were a surfer. You can wear it in the waves or with jeans for a night out. You can be an active woman, a woman who just wants to look chic on the beach, or someone who wants a great pair of waterproof, quick dry shorts they can throw on when they get out of the water."
Looks Like: Modern vintage (think: Mondrian-inspired prints, floral-sprigged hoodies and boy shorts, striped bikinis and coverups, polka dot maillots and toile rash guards, all in old-school cuts and state-of-the-art fabrics). "Bathing suits are made of thinner microfiber. For surfing, you need a thicker fabric that protects from the sun and the roughness of the board," they explained. "We found that a lot of the fabrics that exist right now for rash guards are very thin, and they're not very flattering. We researched different fabrics, and found a mill in Italy that was doing high-performance, quick dry, breathable activewear. They bill it as swimwear, but it's thick enough to surf in—it's all about the percentage of microfiber in the fabric." In the end, PaS is all about giving women what they want—and need—without sacrificing their sense of style. "We love fashion and we love sports," said Demling and Mulligan. "We want women to look like women and feel good even when they are playing with the boys." For spring/summer 2012, they added tennis togs and collaborated with George Esquivel on chic flip flops. Next up: Pret-a-Snow, a line of custom-made surfboards and snowboards, scented surfboard wax, and Pret-a-Storage bags to carry it all in. Your weekend never looked so good.
Sold At: Pret-a-Surf retails for $150 to $385 and is available at Opening Ceremony, Jeffrey, Shopbop, Barneys, Blue and Cream, Isetan, Elizabeth Charles and Net-a-Porter.

Introducing… JF & Son Community of Compassion

 
The Label: JF & Son for Community of Compassion
Based In: New York
Designed By: JF & Son's Jesse Finkelstein and Katie King in collaboration with artist Julia Sherman for The Community of Compassion, a small order of Anglican nuns in Virginia. "Mother Mary Magdelene had contacted Julia, because she was starting a new convent in Virginia and needed some new habits," said designers Finkelstein and King, who launched JF & Son back in 2007. "Julia then contacted us and asked if we'd like to help design and produce the pieces. Of course, we said yes."  
Looks Like: Intended to function both as a daily nun's habit (which is a wedding dress, worn in perpetuity) and as a monastic fashion statement for style-conscious civilians, JF & Son Community of Compassion designs marry streamlined silhouettes, neutral colors and cozy materials (velvet, wool, flannel and silk). So lightweight undergarments for the sisters can be worn as casual pants and a camisole by secular gals, a woolen cape dress features a separate hood that drapes perfectly over the nuns' wimple—and looks just as lovely draped around a bare neck. And several pieces have a digital "hair-shirt" pattern on the lining that nods to medieval garments of penitence while also functioning as a striking graphic known only to the wearer. "We tend to like things a bit covered up and layered, so designing a collection with such broad silhouettes came pretty naturally," the designers told TFI. And Mother Mary Magdalene could not be happier with the elegant and comfortable collection, which does not contradict the sisters' vows of poverty, chastity and obedience. "The life of a 21st-century nun is hard enough without self-imposed physical hardship," says Mother Mary. Hear, hear! As for whether doing the collaboration will assure the designers a place in heaven?  "I hope it's not that easy," said King with a laugh.
Sold At: Priced from $98 - $412, The Community of Compassion collection is available at the JF & Son boutique in New York or online at JF & Son.

Introducing…Fleabags

The Label: Fleabags
Based In: Brooklyn, New York
Designed By: Shira Enits (a fashion designer) and Alex Bell (a lawyer).  The duo met at Brown University and launched Fleabags, their line of convenient, fashionable, oversized hand-sewn totes, in 2009 as a luxury alternative to plastic grocery bags. "We were inspired by our flea marketing trips and wanted to create the perfect marketing bag; our version of a women's tool bag, that combined timeless design with carefully selected, beautiful but sturdy materials," the pals told TFI. "So many so-called 'eco-friendly' canvas bags are themselves disposable and are also shipped tens-of-thousands of miles. When developing this brand, we decided it was very important to source and produce locally. All of our products are made in the New York metropolitan area and we source quality materials within the United States." Originally made from vintage or dead-stock fabrics, Fleabags has evolved to include one-of-a-kind fabrics designed by Entis, paired with eco-friendly canvas and leather sourced in the US and Italy that's vegetable-tanned, silkscreened with water-based ink, and constructed entirely in New York City. And ten percent of the profits from sales of FB's tote bags go to benefit New York's Save the Garment Center organization.
Looks Like: Utilitiarian chic tool bags and totes. Their latest project, FB Custom, features the Zhivago (a luxe leather shoulder bag with organic striped cotton lining) and the Weekender (a waxed canvas/hemp/leather-trimmed carryall, based on an old-school train case updated with a built-in laundry/laptop sleeve), both made in collaboration with a Brooklyn-based craftsman who has made bags for the likes of Coach and Chanel. Each FB Custom bag is completely hand-cut and sewn, ensuring that no two are exactly alike. "For spring, we took inspiration from the Baltimore ports, the Chesapeake Bay and the seafaring lifestyle of Navy men and fishermen," said Enits and Bell of their latest collection. Expect bags in colors that reference the bright hues of buoys and lobster crates, some trimmed with netting made by a craftsman in Louisiana. Next up: they're re-imagining the professional camera bag (in collaboration with a professional photographer, natch). "We're working on two versions, one that incorporates the necessary compartments and cushioning and a second everyday bag inspired by the same structure and aesthetic."
Sold At: Fleabags retail from $115 - $440 and are carried dozens of stores worldwide, including TenOverSix and Satine in Los Angeles, Henri Bendel in New York, Tangerine in Chicago, Penny Lane in San Antonio, Eccentric in France, Spoon in Italy and online at Fleabg.com.

Introducing...Digby & Iona

The Label: Digby & Iona
Based In: Brooklyn, New York
Designed By: Aaron Ruff, who was raised in Maine, where he loved discovering hidden treasures and ancient relics. The son of a craftsman, Ruff studied furniture design at Parsons before switching his major to jewelry. The name, Digby & Iona, is taken from two seaside towns in Nova Scotia that Ruff fell in love with while traveling.
Looks Like: In keeping with his original inspiration, Ruff's playful, antiquated pieces—silver tree stumps carved with hearts, finely wrought arrows, compass lockets and signet rings, bone and musket pendants, vintage-inspired keys, distressed bullet, dice and domino necklaces—do, indeed, recall old timey trinkets (or cool detritus overlooked in our fast-moving culture) that you might've discovered while out for a stroll in the woods. And the Inspector Clouseau and Phileas Fogg necklaces pay tribute to their mustachioed namesakes while calling to mind more modern bewhiskered Brooklyn denizens. "My collections always draw inspiration from immersing myself in different historical periods; this time I looked to prehistory," Ruff told The Fashion Informer of his latest collection. "Also after Signet, my spring 2011 collection, which was full of extremely meticulous, high detail engraved pieces, I wanted to create a simple, well crafted collection where the materials could take the spotlight (and wanted an excuse to play around with some feathers)!" Ruff also collaborated with UK children's book author Oliver Jeffers on a limited-edition collection this past fall.
Sold At: Digby & Iona is sold at specialty boutiques worldwide, including Catbird in Williamsburg, Atomic Garden in San Francisco, Dirtbox in Australia, and on the Digby & Iona website.

Introducing…Gabriela Cadena

The Label: Gabriela Cadena
Based In: New York 
Designed By: Gabriela Cadena, a native of Guayaquil, Equador who studied fashion at Accademia Italiana, Arte Moda Design in Florence before relocating to New York and launching her line in 2010. "The glamour of the fashion industry has always had an allure for me and it was always my dream to have my own collection and to be able to present my idea of beauty to the world," Cadena told The Fashion Informer. "I just love all aspects of the fashion industry and the process of design. I find it amazing being able to design for the future; what I design now won’t be on the market until almost a year later, and people would still love it."
Looks Like: Uber-feminine, intricately detailed dresses and gowns aimed at the red carpet set (Shakira, Hillary Scott, Nikki Reed, Haylie Duff, Kelly Osbourne, Brooke Burke and Lo Bosworth have all worn Gabriela Cadena creations). The designer's spring 2012 collection was inspired by medieval body armor and couture techniques, which Cadena juxtaposed beautifully by way of a sexy draped cocktail frock with one-shoulder beaded epaulet, geometric patterned day dresses (some with cut-out shoulders), and a strapless sheath covered in shimmery pastel paillettes arranged in a floral watercolor pattern. The one thing you won't find in the collection: pants. "The women who wear my designs are elegant, modern, confident, sexy and a bit edgy, which I love!," said Cadena of her clients. "There is nothing like the feeling you've being able to make someone feel as though she is the most beautiful woman in the world by dressing her."
Sold At: Gabriela Cadena's collection retails from $1,385 - $5,300 and is carried at specialty stores around the world, including Esti's, Miss Jackon's, Designers' Lounge and Modern Home.

Introducing…Ecubyan

The Label: Ecubyan
Based In: New York City
Designed By: FIT grad Diana Valhuerdi and painter-turned-textile designer Katie McKay, who've joined forces with Ecubyan, a print-heavy collection of casual, easy to wear pieces. "We are  fun and transformative," said the Brooklyn-based duo of their aesthetic. "We are exciting and accessible—never boring.  We don’t take ourselves too seriously.  We are Bette Midler’s ecstatic makeover at the end of Ruthless People, Parker Posey’s rebellious Party Girl, and a defiant Denise Huxtable all transported via chiffon magic carpet to 2012." The name Ecubyan is derived from a song title by Seventies glam rocker Jobriath (who lived in a pyramid atop the Chelsea Hotel). "The song is about a mystical golden bird lady who visits him to taunt him and drink tea with him," said Valhuerdi. Hmm, sounds like Anna Dello Russo.
Looks Like: Full of painterly prints, youthful shapes and playful colors, this is girls-just-wanna-have-fun fashion at its feel-good best. Think: flirty overalls, a shredded chiffon vest hand-embroidered in Mumbai, and layered silk dresses, along with eclectic-chic shorts, blazers, leggings and cocktail frocks. For their spring 2012 debut, Valhuerdi and McKay were feeling the influence of ancient Egyptian ruins and the Ouroboros. Their ideal customer is a woman "looking to embrace her inner Rihanna." So it's no surprise, then, that the duo dresses local musicians such as Brooklyn's dance pop band, Avan Lava. The collection will also be featured in a special fashion episode of Beverly Hills, 90210 airing later this month.
Sold At: Ecubyan retails from $250-$500 and is sold at Eponymy in Brooklyn and American Rag in LA.

Introducing…FACTORY by Erik Hart

The Label: FACTORY by Erik Hart 
Based In: Los Angeles
Designed By: Erik Hart introduced FACTORY in spring 2010. "FACTORY is an interdisciplinary exercise with its focus on the creation/production of clothing, installation, video, sound and objects," he told The Fashion Informer. In addition to creating his artwork and wearable collection, Hart is currently at work on corresponding film, scent and installations for spring 2012, along with a unique e-com platform that will encompass all elements of his work and encourage a direct dialogue with his audience.
Looks Like: "The collection focuses on my signature aesthetic and design approach," said the self-taught 31-year-old, a former hardcore musician who also designed the artisanal LA streetwear line Morphine Generation, which launched in 2003 (though he's no longer affiliated with that brand). "An exercise in balancing the tension created between contrasts and duality. The dichotomy of androgyny and femininity, high and low, vulnerability and confidence, restraint and excess." In practical terms, this translates to softly tailored pieces, directional-yet-feminine silhouettes and minimalist sophistication paired with street sensibilities—all heightened by the designer's keen eye for construction and quality. Hart eschews obvious trends, preferring to build each seasonless FACTORY collection off the previous one. His most recent outing was influenced by time spent in Berlin and the work of late conceptual Israeli artist Absalon, which resulted in the creation of flowing silhouettes through the restriction of geometry (and is far more wearable than it sounds). Despite his wonderfully left-of-center approach, which favors the creative over the commercial, Hart's curved-hem dresses, fluid trousers and cropped jackets could easily find a place of honor in most fashion-forward women's wardrobes. You can also learn more about the designer's inspirations and creative process at Erik Hart Projects.
Sold At: FACTORY by Erik Hart retails for $75 - $350 at such stores as OAK, Ron Herman, Satine, Dolce Vita, Saks Fifth Avenue and Podium in Russia.

Introducing…Mr. Powers

The Label: Mr. Powers
Based In: New York City
Designed By: Cynthia Rowley, who was inspired by her art gallery owner/reality tv star husband, Bill Powers. "We launched it now because the collection is timed with each episode of Work of Art, Bravo's show that Bill is a judge on," says Rowley. "He wore stuff last season but we were unprepared for the demand it created. This collection is specifically tied to what he wears on the show." Although the line is based on the style and wardrobe needs of her husband, he does not have a hand in designing the collection. Like husbands everywhere, "he cares just enough," says Rowley of Powers' involvement. "Not too much and not too little." 
Looks Like: Though the real Mr. Powers does wear pants on the show, The Mr. Powers collection is not a soup to nuts wardrobe, but focuses "from the waist up," says the designer with a laugh. "When you say soup to nuts, you don't really want me to talk about the nuts do you? It's bespoke meets bedraggled." In sartorial terms, this translates to roughly two dozen pieces, including a black watch plaid blazer, tweed chesterfield sport coat, crocheted wool sweaters and striped cardigans, all of which are designed to be worn with one's favorite jeans. But those in search of a top-to-toe Mr. Powers look may soon get their wish. "I guess one day it would be nice to do pants," says Rowley wistfully. Timed, we can only assume, to the next edition of Work of Art. So cross your fashionable fingers that Bravo renews the show for a third season.
Sold At: Mr. Powers retails from $275 to $595 and is available at Cynthia Rowley stores in New York, Boston, Chicago and Charleston and online at  www.cynthiarowley.com.

Introducing...Alex & Eli

 The Label: Alex & Eli
Based In: New York
Designed By: Aja Singer, a Toronto native, and Anna Zeman, who hails from Seattle. The duo met at Parsons but, interestingly, both had pursued science degrees—anatomy and cell biology (Aja) and biochemistry (Anna)—before moving to New York to study fashion. Both did high-profile intern- and apprenticeships (Aja at Carolina Herrera, Zac Posen and Marc by Marc Jacobs, Anna at Rodarte and Chado Ralph Rucci) before joining forces in 2009 to launch their collection, which is aimed at reinventing the suit for modern career women. "There was Jil Sander and there was Theory," said Zeman. "But there was nothing that was special, with a real attention to detail, in the middle range." Enter Alex & Eli (which is a masculinized version of their middle names, Alexandra and Elizabeth). "We wanted to make clothes that would [allow you to] express your individuality at work and still look polished," Singer told The Fashion Informer when we stopped by their midtown showroom. The collection is made entirely in New York's Garment District using the finest Italian wools, original silk prints and technical stretch fabrics finished with custom-made buttons from Waterbury Button Company, the oldest button manufacturer in the United States. And did we mention that every Alex & Eli blazer has working buttonholes on the sleeve?  
Looks Like: This is not your mother's power suit. Approaching fabric, cut and print the way a scientist approaches a lab challenge, Singer and Zeman have refined the traditional suit by melding classic menswear fabrics (houndstooth, glen plaid, pinstripes) and details (contrasting collar linings, the aforementioned working buttonholes) with feminized silhouettes. Their double-breasted blazer, for instance, is tailored to highlight a woman's curves—in a stylish yet tasteful way—and features a rounded scoop neck that looks as terrific hanging open as it does buttoned up. Likewise, their trousers are cut long and lean, and nip in at that sweet (and oh-so-flattering) spot just below the waist. Drapey silk blouses boast covered buttons and contrasting collars and cuffs, while skirts range from asymmetrical pinstripe mini-wraps to plaid knee-length pencil shapes—and one beautifully tailored blazer features 80 pattern pieces.  "We think of our aesthetic as being slick and sophisticated, with great attention to detail," said Zeman. Their aesthetic also hews proudly toward Geek Chic. For spring, they were inspired by Jacques Cousteau (watery prints, leather-trim trousers and gill-like details) and for fall, it was all about original-flavor Star Trek, as witnessed by the Vulcan and Kirk blazers and the Trekkie tank.  Thankfully, the Star Trek details come through as a whisper, rather than a shout (an elongated Spock-like pocket here, a Space Charm or Cosmos print there, and several pieces in the deep red of Lieutenant Uhuru's uniform—including a pair of red suede culottes with a matching jacket that tweaks the idea of a modern suit even further). Alex & Eli fan Susie Lau (of Style Bubble fame) was so impressed that she offered to do a look book video to help promote the collection (they did a similar video with Britt Maren for fall 2010). "The modern working wardrobe isn't what it was twenty years ago," said Anna. Well, not if Alex & Eli has anything to do with it.
Sold At: Alex & Eli, which retails in the $180-$500 range, is available at specialty boutiques nationwide, including Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Inven.tory, Minx, 11th Moon, TenOverSix, Rhinoceros, Lileo (in Canada) and Les Nouvelles online. Starting this fall, the label will also be carried at Intermix and on Saks.com.










photos courtesy Alex & Eli (designer portraits and stills ©Lucy Carr-Ellison, spring 2011 ©Tina Tyrell, fall 2011 ©Tom Hines)

Introducing…Sedgwick

The Label: Sedgwick
Based In: New York City, by way of Sedgwick County, Kansas.
Designed By: Ashley Baker and Carly Beck, better known as the executive editor of The Daily Front Row and account executive/branding director of Steven Alan and DVF, respectively. "We had always been looking for simple, lightweight handbags that were well-made, durable and would last for more than one season," Baker told The Fashion Informer. "They existed, but not at a terribly accessible price point." The childhood friends, who grew up in Wichita, combined their respective talents to create Sedgwick, which launched in spring 2011. "We don't have any formal training, but we're both dedicated product junkies. We've been friends forever and developed a similar aesthetic after years of spending every Saturday (and many Sundays) shopping in New York. We design Sedgwick collaboratively—sketching and selecting leather and developing hardware—and we're lucky that we basically always agree on the direction for each season."
Looks Like: The duo looks to a different corner of the country each season for inspiration. For spring, they turned to the New Mexico landscape favored by artists such as Georgia O'Keefe and Mabel Dodge Luhan, for whom two of the bags are named. The Georgia is a compact, chain strapped shoulder bag, while The Mabel is an elegant rectangular clutch. Both come in tie dyed or embossed-lace white leather, and The Georgia is also available in more traditional smooth or pebbled black leather. The Painter's Tote, meanwhile, is a roomy open-top satchel designed to carry your daily essentials in style. Baker and Beck collaborated with photographer Anthony Cotsifas on their spring look book, which was shot on location at New Mexico's Echo Ampitheater, Abiquiu Lake, the Rio Grande Bridge and the Purple Adobe Lavender Farm. All the bags feature custom hardware and are made in New York's Garment District, and Baker's mom makes each Sedgwick dust bag. For summer, they enlarged The Georgia and re-imagined it in sun-bleached shades of pink and yellow. Come fall, look for more colorful styles inspired by the washed-out reds and blues of coastal Maine in winter.
Sold At: Sedgwick bags, which retail from $248 to $586, are sold at Elizabeth Charles, By George, Arcade, Confederacy, TenOverSix and Bird.

Introducing: Mrs. Brown

The Label: Mrs. Brown
Based In:  New York
Designed By: Steven Cox and Daniel Silver
Looks Like: We've long lusted after the menswear pieces designed by Duckie Brown duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver (those sequin sweatshirts and cozy sweaters in particular). So it was with happy heart that we learned they're introducing a women's collection, dubbed Mrs. Brown, for fall. "It was the right time to launch Mrs. Brown; it just felt right," Daniel Silver told us. "And we always go with how we feel." Heavy on the knits (yay!), the 17-piece range has a boy-meets-girl sensibility, and includes slouchy pullovers, hoodies and cardigans knit on a circular machine, which gives them a slightly skewed, twisted silhouette that is pure Duckie. Prices start at $75 (for a beanie), and the designers plan to add drop crotch trousers, leather and denim jackets and skinny pants for spring 2012, utilizing the same fabrics found in their 10-year-old men's collection.  "We never limit ourselves to any one kind of customer," added Silver. "Just like Duckie Brown, Mrs. Brown has something for everyone."
Sold At: A. Turen in New York, Distractions in Aspen and Abersons in Tulsa.

Introducing…Quarry

The Label: Quarry
Based In: New York
Designed By: Ninh Wysocan, who studied sculpture and furniture design at RISD and has helmed an eponymous fine jewelry line—notable for organic forms fashioned from precious metals—since 2003. She launched Quarry, a more accessibly-priced line of bold statement pieces, in spring 2011. "Making fine jewelry is something I really love, but because of the materials there are some basic constrictions that have prevented me from exploring larger sizes and more unusual stones," Wysocan told The Fashion Informer of her new line."With Quarry, the design is much more about creating statement pieces in bronze and brass with really beautiful, but rarely used, semi-precious gems/minerals. While my fine jewelry line is about organic forms, layering and drapery, Quarry is inspired by a wide mix of more minimal architecture and traditional tribal jewelry. I like to think about what it might mean to make amulets for our age: What kind of superstitions does today's woman need to ward off? And what sort of symbolic form does that yield?" 
Looks Like: For Quarry's fall collection, Wysocan took her inspiration from traditional jewelry worn by the Tuareg tribe of North Africa. Each piece is hand-crafted from brass and bronze with occasional gold or silver plating, and blends elements of geometry with more organic curves, resulting in strong, talismanic jewelry that is designed to empower the wearer as much as adorn her. "I find it exciting that anyone can wear it, but I suppose I imagine that it's someone who's a bit creative, either professionally or artistically, and has a strong sense of personal style," the Guam-born, New York-based jeweler says of her ideal customer. "For Quarry it might be someone who needs to protect themselves from the evil spirits that haunt postmodern office cubicles. Office cubicle amulets sound like a wonderful idea!" 
Sold At: The Quarry fall collection will be available at Stand Up Comedy, Totokaelo, Mayram Nassir Zadeh, Creatures of Comfort, Jumell and La Garconne.

images courtesy Quarry

Introducing…Blaise Kavanagh

The Label: Blaise Kavanagh
Based In: New York City
Designed By: Blaise Kavanagh, 26, who got his BFA in fashion design from Pratt and cut his teeth working in children's wear (at Lucy Sykes), menswear (at Thom Browne) and womenswear (at Bill Blass) before launching his own label in spring 2011. "I was an overall assistant at Thom Browne but I worked a lot in the factory overseeing samples, and that was my favorite part because it was this really old-school Italian tailor and he had Italian seamstresses that reminded me of my grandma, and we'd speak Italian; it was the best," said Kavanagh, who makes all his own patterns and samples. "I learned so much about tailoring and construction. Then I went on to Bill Blass, and I feel from both of those houses that I take that All-American sensibility—which is also my own sensibility—and simplicity. Simplicity, line, form and fit.  I build clothes.  I build things around the female form—and I love it."
Looks Like: Refined American sportswear with a focus on day-to-night versatility, vis-a-vis silk georgette dresses in sun bleached prints mixed with sporty elements (such as scuba-style piping) for spring, and wide leg trousers, tie-neck blouses and beautifully cut blazers in softly feminine shapes (and even softer tweed) for fall.  This season's muse was Gatsby-era/Gold Coast glamour ("but not so literal"). For fall, Kavanagh promises a collection that's "a little bit more frothy and fun; warm, fuzzy, cozy"—with a big focus on holiday dressing. "Every collection begins with the women I seek to dress in the forefront of my mind," added the designer. "They are an unending inspiration.  What makes them feel modern, beautiful, and current?  It's never about shock value or showmanship, but rather, craftsmanship.  Deliberate design that flatters the female form, helping her to present herself to the world as intelligent, beautiful, confident, and thus, empowered."
Sold At: Neiman Marcus (via trunk shows), RTW in Charleston, Mimi in New Orleans and Shari's in Kings Point, NY.






images courtesy Blaise Kavanagh