The Fashion Informer

TFI on Rue La La: NYFW Must-Haves

I closed out Fashion Week with a roundup of fashion insider's favorite must-haves. What are your don't-leave-home-without-'em NYFW essentials?

TFI on Rue La La: NYFW Media

In the second installment of my three-part series for Rue La La's The (Style) Guide blog, I get the New York Fashion Week lowdown from The Daily editor Ashley Baker, PR guru Cindy Krupp, Fashion Calendar founder Ruth Finley, fashion journalist Lauren Ezersky, fashion illustrator Richard Haines and photographer Patrick Butler. 

TFI on Rue La La: NYFW Producers

Ever wonder what it takes to organize New York Fashion Week? I asked Fern Mallis, the CFDA's Steven Kolb, MADE/Fashion Next exec Jenne Lombardo and show producer Lee Trimble to break it down for me.

TFI on Rue La La: Designer Inspiration

Here's a little Rue roundup on what inspired designers Daniel Vosovic, Rachel Roy, Lubov Azria, Marcia Patmos, Chris Benz, Duckie Brown, Nicole Miller, Brandon Sun, Mathiew Mirano, Kate Spade creative director, Deborah Lloyd, and Bill Blass designer Jeffrey Monteiro for fall 2012.  See you at the shows!

Fall 2012 Preview: Lela Rose

What inspired you for fall 2012?
The collection is inspired by the architect Santiago Calatrava's linear labyrinths.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
The silhouette is long, lean, and linear. The materials and prints are graphic geometrics. The color palette is inspired by metals used to build bridges and the multi colored patina that has been built up over time.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
The Walkmen, The Kooks.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
I just finished a 10-day cleanse which really helped in giving me a boost of energy. I think I will continue to have the protein shakes in the morning.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I love seeing most every show. It is always fascinating to see the similar currents that run through many collections and see how those are manifested differently.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
We are headed out to Jackson Hole for a long weekend right after the show.

Lela Rose will show her fall 2012 collection on Sunday, February 12th at The Studio at Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: Vivienne Tam

What inspired you for fall 2012?
Shangri-La.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
I am using bold colors and fabrics with lots of texture, such as heavy wools and tweeds. I like the slouchy but chic look of oversized blazers and shirts.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection? 
I listen to the sounds of what surrounds me; I especially love the sounds of nature.

What do you look for when casting your show?
I look for confidence in my models. When the girls have confidence, it shows in their attitude and translates into their walk; the clothes come to life. 

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
I ground myself every day by practicing yoga. Having this already set into my routine allows me to stay balanced so I do not feel overwhelmed in the days leading up to NYFW.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season? 
I always look forward to seeing how designers translate their inspirations into a collection for the runway.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
There are always new projects to be working on.  I like keeping busy and challenging myself. I see the end of fashion week as a new beginning; an opportunity to work on new ideas that have come to me during this process.

Vivienne Tam will show her fall 2012 collection on Wednesday, February 15th at The Stage at Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: Emerson

What inspired you for fall 2012?
I came across an interesting art piece, which was made up of porcelain doll figurines. I found out that the dolls had been dug up from factories in Dresden, Germany that had been blown up during World War II.  From there, the inspirations evolved into many. The men went off to war, leaving the women to step in and work in the factories and go into the army corps. These women gained a new sense of independence. I also mixed in influences of old Hollywood glamour and added a pin-up vibe, too.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
I used primarily blacks, greys and purples then added a punch of lime green. Denim, faux fur, wool blends and some unique specialty fabrics were used in a way to blend masculine and feminine. 

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
The Kills, Yeah Yeah Yeahs and Patti Smith.

What do you look for when casting your show?
For this collection I’m looking for models with a strong, yet sultry look—like a pin-up girl.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
I spend any down time I have with my family.  And any time I’m not with them I just picture my husband and the precious faces of my four little girls!

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Derek Lam, Helmut Lang, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler and Chanel.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
I have a pretty hectic schedule until the end of February, but after that my husband and I are planning a trip to Europe.

Jackie Fraser-Swan will show her fall 2012 Emerson collection Tuesday, February 14th at The Studio in Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: Tommy Hilfiger

What inspired you for fall 2012?
My fall 2012 inspiration is military meets prep.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
The brand’s signature reds and blues are done in deep jewel tone shades. The military details add a rich texture-on-texture finish and fitted shapes create a strong silhouette.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Rock-and-roll classics like The Rolling Stones remain a favorite, but I have also been enjoying indie artists like Johnnyswim.

What do you look for when casting your show/presentation?
I look for individuals who portray the preppy heritage of the brand and the spirit of the collection.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Good music keeps me motivated and I have a constant supply of green tea in the studio.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Peter Som and Simon Spurr are two immensely talented designers. I look forward to their shows each season.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week.
Spending time with my family is a great way to relax. I like to plan a family getaway in Mustique to really unwind.

Tommy Hilfiger will show his fall 2012 men's collection on Friday, February 10th and his fall 2012 women's collection on Sunday, February 12th at the Park Avenue Armory.

Fall 2012 Preview: Gemma Kahng

What inspired you for fall 2012?
I am inspired by the delicate beauty of Renaissance portraits and extravagant medieval armor. And I am putting them together with hip hop to bring them into the present day.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Lots of gold, different shades of black and cream with a splash of red.  There are many different textures—lace, chiffon, satin, leather and several types of fur. 

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
I put on Thievery Corporation Radio on the internet. It has a nice beat and doesn’t scare my sewing ladies.

What do you look for when casting your show/presentation?
I like innocent-looking girls with a nice personality, skinny long legs and a cool walk.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
I try to sleep at least seven hours every night and we make fresh fruit and vegetable juice in the studio.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I have to go back to production for spring right after the show. I don’t think I can go to any shows.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
I will go to my house in upstate and spend few days playing with my cats. We miss each other so much.

Gemma Kahng will present her fall 2012 collection as part of the Gen Art New Garde show on Thursday, February 9th at Exit Art.

TFI on Rue La La: EDFF Breakfast

See what went down at the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation breakfast—celebrating the 2012 EDFF winners Haus Alkire, Sunhee, Titania Inglis, Eighteenth, Tim Coppens, CorrellCorrell, Dezso by Sara Baltran—in my Rue La La coverage.

TFI on Rue La La: Lauren David Peden NYFW Boutique

I'm excited to announce that I will once again be covering NYFW for Rue La La's The (Style) Guide blog. I also curated a NYFW boutique, full of my favorite styles from Rue's uber-chic designers. The boutique opens on Thursday, February 9th at 11am, just in time for the shows. In the meantime, here are a few of my favorite New York Fashion Week style tips.

Fall 2012 Preview: Bill Blass

What inspired you for fall 2012?  
Paintings by Anette Harboe Flensburg.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes? 
During the design process I focused on Anette H. Flensburg’s use of strong lines and bold colors.  I am fascinated by her use of color and how she demonstrates color’s dependence on light.  I worked on the idea by combining bold lustrous colors with textured shades of the same color to portray an effect reminiscent in her paintings. 

What music did you listen to while designing this collection? 
My music selection tends to vary from day to day. Yesterday it was Bon Iver, today it was The Sanctuaries and who knows what it will be tomorrow...

What do you look for when casting your show? 
We search for girls that fit the role and can play the part of a particular look. We have a different and specific girl in mind for each look that goes down the runway. Good models are essentially like actors. We look for girls that have presence, a sense of self and a flair for the dramatic when we cast.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
I’m naturally fairly energetic but I do tend to drink more Toasted Almond Tea from Birch Coffee around the show to keep myself going.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season? 
I would love to see other shows but being that our show is one of the last I will be too busy preparing to enjoy any others. I’m really looking forward to catching up on all of NYFW during my downtime after our Bill Blass show.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week? 
During the long work days leading up to the show I dream and hope of relaxing on some exotic island after the show, but realistically I will most likely just retreat to upstate New York. 

Jeffrey Monteiro will show the fall 2012 Bill Blass collection on Thursday, February 16th at The Union League Club.

Fall 2012 Preview: Anna Sui

What inspired you for fall 2012?
I am inspired this season by the new Alexander Girard book by Todd Oldham and the new Charles and Ray Eames documentary, The Architect and the Painter. Also, I was looking at the charming illustrations of Walter and Naiad Einsel, and John Alcorn from the same period.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
The strong colors come directly from the work of Alexander Girard, who established the iconic colors palette of the 1960s; fuchsia and orange, turquoise and lime.  My prevailing silhouette is reminiscent of that period's chemise dresses.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
The Best of the Girl Groups—Rhino Collection (Volumes 1 and 2).

What do you look for when casting your show?
It is like casting a movie. I definitely have a specific character in mind who is the ideal woman of the time or theme that is influencing me.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
It's the ongoing process that keeps me going. One idea leads to the next, excitement builds as finished pieces start trickling in, everything starts coming together. It's a thrill.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Marc Jacobs, always.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Visit with my family.

Anna Sui will show her fall 2012 collection on Wednesday, February 15th at The Theatre at Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: Lyn Devon

What inspired you for fall 2012?
A New York winter love story.  All bundled up and walking the streets together, it's like discovering a new city when you're in love seeing in anew together.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Colors are pastel and feminine like rose and lilac, materials textured and soft like angora and mohair, coat shapes are voluminous and cozy while dress silhouettes highlight the feminine form and are designed to seduce.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Jim Campilongo's The Prettiest Girl in New York.

What do you look for when casting your show?
I always cast my house model and muse. Our own modern-day Hepburn.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
I always take an hour here and there for myself during the day. And I always drink the grasshopper from Liquiteria on Second Avenue. 

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Dries Van Noten, Erdem.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
It's sales season, so there's not really any time to unwind.

Lyn Devon will present her fall 2012 collection on Wednesday, February 15th at the Hudson Hotel penthouse.

TFI on Rue La La: Men's Fashion Week (part two)

And in the second installment of my men's fall 2012 fashion coverage roundup for Rue La La, I bring you the latest from Neil Barrett, Salvatore Ferragamo, Umit Benan, Costume National, Roberto Cavalli, John Varvatos and Missoni.

Fall 2012 Preview: Rochambeau

What inspired you for fall 2012? 
We found inspiration in the dark mythology behind the holiday season. Christmas and all of the surrounding folklore is rooted in pre-Christian Paganism. The collection was based around the primal origins of what has become a whimsical time of year. It conveys the sort of bittersweet nostalgia you inevitably feel towards the holiday season as adults. 

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes? 
The collection explores naturalistic textures: weathered skins, rich furs and warm wools and knits. The construction is architectural and represents both cold modern structure as well as Pagan runic symbolism in a primarily monochromatic palette. 

What music did you listen to while designing this collection? 
A lot of Sigur Rós. Their combination of minimalist, classical and ethereal sounds is similar to what this collection seeks to convey visually. 

What do you look for when casting your show? 
We take great pride in being a progressive menswear label from New York City and we like to highlight the clothing by casting real guys—strong and with an edge. Often men's fashion casts the super thin waif-like guy, we want guys guys, showing you can be a man with style. Our last show had a very rocker edge and received amazing feedback.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW? 
We are so lucky that through our partnership with W hotels we can present all of our hard work on such a grand stage. That excitement alone is enough to keep us going! Last season we literally did not sleep for two weeks leading up to the show—our studio becomes a factory of castings, fittings and adjusting last minute details.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season? 
We're always anxious to see what our good friend, the Icelandic designer Sruli Recht is up to. We look to designers like Damir Doma and Anne Demeulemeester in Europe and we're always interested in what Siki Im and Rad Hourani are doing in New York. 

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
In our dreams we are at an Aman resort. In reality, we are already working on the framework for next season!

Rochambeau (Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler) will present their fall 2012 collection on Wednesday, February 15th at The Box at Lincoln Center.

Fall 2012 Preview: Cynthia Rowley

What inspired you for fall 2012?
Mechanics and tulle.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Blood Orange and MisShapes mixes.

What do you look for when casting your show?
Freshness.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Liquid diet! Roasting Plant coffee in the morning, IZZE sodas to hydrate all day, and a prosecco in the eve to chill out.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Fun and games with family and friends and a fast trip to surf Typhoon Lagoon.

Cynthia Rowley will show her fall 2012 collection on Thursday, February 9th at the IAC building.

Fall 2012 Preview: With & Wessel

What inspired you for fall 2012?
With & Wessel Fall/Winter 2012 is inspired by modern city life. This collection adds to With & Wessel's roots in fashion basics, evolving into more ready-to-wear styles to reflect this.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
The transition into fall and winter is captured in our rich color story of fig, cognac, dark olives, smokey charcoals and modern touches of ultramarine blue and tiger lily orange.  Once again, With & Wessel defines the versatility and modernity of wool in its function to keep us warm in layers in versatile styles with a sophisticated edge. We continue with our core collection of essential basics while adding styles with volume, such as our long sleeve maxi dress, draped skirt, flowing cardigans and oversized turtleneck top.

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
No music.

What do you look for when casting your show/presentation?
A Scandinavian approach—movement , great energy.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
Work hard, go to the gym and hang with great friends that make us laugh. 

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Anna Sui show (of course), Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Prada, Miu Miu, Rodarte, A Detacher, Marni and Rick Owens.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Unwind, there is no time. With & Wessel has multiple projects.

With & Wessel (Cathrine Wessel, Stian Tolnaes and Michelle Kim) will present their fall 2012 collection on Tuesday, February 7th at the Norwegian Royal Consul's Residence.

Fall 2012 Preview: Simon Spurr

What inspired you for fall 2012?
I'm always about keeping it British, but this season i concentrated on the concept of the Distinguished Gentleman. I wanted to explore individualism within the constraints of sartorial boundaries, but at the same time keep the collection modern and desirable. Robert Frank images on refined English gentlemen were the starting point. From there I needed to reinterpret the elements of traditional men’s patterns and techniques, bringing the inspiration into the modern day.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
The line continues to play with the masculine tones of grey, pilot blue and black, but this season is infused with dark tones of burgundy and brown resulting in a rich, European aesthetic with an edge. I've also maintained my forward thinking approach to garment construction and have expanded on the bonding techniques I started a few seasons ago, and have even bonded patterns made from fine gauge sweaters onto outerwear.

What do you look for when casting your show?
There must always be sophistication to the man—an inherent swagger and confidence without being arrogant. The man must complement the clothes and vice versa.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
The run up to fashion week is normally quite a peaceful few weeks due to the fact that the collection has already been finished in time for European sales market in Milan and Paris. From there, it's all about editing the collection to its purist form and really identifying what message I want the brand to send to the customer.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
I love the European shows. I very much like Bottega Veneta as I think there is a perfect blend of directional fashion with traditional craftsmanship. Burberry is also almost always a highlight.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
Unfortunately there is never any time to unwind after fashion week as the new season has already begun.  Maybe this season will be different, maybe I'll find some time for a quick break.

Simon Spurr will show his fall 2012 collection on Sunday, February 12th at Milk Studios.

Fall 2012 Preview: The Blonds

What inspired you for fall 2012?
We were inspired by vintage biker chick flicks and the animated film Heavy Metal. All of the women were such strong characters and equaled the men in strength and prowess, but still looked so stunning and glamorous.

How does this play out in terms of colors, materials and shapes?
Strong fitted silhouettes with severe color like blood red to ice blue to jet black. Distressed materials like leather and denim mixed with shiny hardware. And crystals, of course!

What music did you listen to while designing this collection?
Michael Jackson, Queen, The Cramps, Blondie, Madonna and a little Missy Elliot to spice it up.

What do you look for when casting your show?
Personality, exotic features and a strong walk.

How do you stay energized/balanced in the weeks leading up to NYFW?
5-hour Energy, Wheat Grass shots and Starbucks.

What other show(s) are you looking forward to seeing this season?
Unfortunately we never have the time to see any others.

How do you plan to unwind after Fashion Week?
No unwinding for us. It's already shaping up to be a busy year at The Blonds. But maybe we will treat ourselves to a massage.

The Blonds (David and Phillipe Blond) will show their fall 2012 collection on Wednesday, February 15th at Milk Studios.