The Fashion Informer

Best Fall 2013 NYFW Invites

New York Fashion Week kicks off today, and TFI's been showered with hundreds of invitations to the fall 2013 shows. This season, there are a few distinct themes shaping up in the invite department. Here are my faves.

Bold graphics are the name of the game at Tome, 4 Corners of a Circle (printed on a square of felted canvas) and VPL by Victoria Bartlett, who's calling her fall outing "Disjoin + Rejoin." Designer Jen Kao offers a snippet of self-penned poetry on a jagged backdrop, while Nonoo and Rauwolf use old-school iconography (birds and vintage typography, respectively) in fresh, unexpected ways. 

Lots of designers are paying homage to the natural world this season, whether it's a field of faded flowers at Lyn Devon, black and white silhouetted branches at ADEAM, lush 3-D blossoms at WHIT or the earthy-elegant knits of newbie Amanda Henderson.

Striking prints and patterns are splashed across the Fashion Week invites of Costello Tagliapietra, Haus Alkire, Tess Giberson and Libertine, whose colorful card depicts the label's fall mood board, including a shot of bruised and bloodied designer Johnson Hartig (a fitting metaphor for what it takes to make it in fashion these days). 

Several invites showcase a clever use of materials: Honor serves up the deets on a piece of sheer, rubbery neon pink plastic. Moncler Grenoble's card opens to reveal the presentation's date, time, et al. printed backwards on the left side of the page, opposite a mirror that allows guests to read the type while doubling the size of the image. And Mathieu Mirano sent over a clear plastic petri dish with his name and show details emblazoned on the lid atop a base printed with what appears to be black and gold microbes—whether a joking nod to this season's global flu epidemic or a visual tribute to the seeds of creative germination, only the designer knows for sure.

And then there are those paeans to classic female archetypes, both old (Marie Antoinette and an African fertility goddess, courtesy Byron Lars) and, errr, new (a platinum-haired dominatrix clad in head-to-toe leather from gender-benders The Blonds). 

As to whether these invitations reflect the mood of the collections themselves? Stay tuned…


graphic design by K Sarna

Informed Obsession: Monocle Candle

 OK, first things first: I am not a regular (or even semi-regular) reader of Monocle. Why? Because while I've found it to be a smart, well-designed magazine on the few occasions that I've perused it, the publication features an abudundance of pretentious articles printed in a teensy weensy typeface and, well, I've got better things to do with my time. Like watch my cat snooze. Or pick lint out of my bellybutton. Or see how many Ghirardelli dark chocolate brownies I can consume without barfing. I'm just kidding. I don't own a cat. But my ambivalence about Monocle the magazine hasn't prevented me from enjoying Monocle the candle, which I discovered when visiting their West Village outpost (because all magazines need to be retailers now, too, or haven't you heard?). I'm partial to Monocle Scented Candle One: Hinoki, which was developed by the good folks at Comme des Garcons, is packaged in a matte black glass container and smells like a rich, woodsy mix of moss and cedar and cypress and pine (or as the Monocle site puts it "a perfectly still, slightly chilly spring morning spent soaking in an indoor/outdoor tub at the Tawaraya in Kyoto") with hints of incense, thyme and vetiver. Yes, it's overpriced at $85. Yes, it's pretentious for a magazine to have a signature scent. And yes, their description of it prompts a wicked case of the retarded tingles. But I don't care. It smells divine and makes me swoon with delight every time I put match to wick. Subscription not required.



graphic design by K Sarna

Introducing…Gretchen Jones

The Label: Gretchen Jones
Based In: Brooklyn, New York
Designed By: Project Runway winner Gretchen Jones, who launched her namesake line in 2011. "Fashion chose me, really," the self-taught Colorado native told TFI when asked what originally drew her to the medium. "From the time I was old enough to dress myself, I did! I've always connected to dressing as the most relevant way of self-expression. The art of putting a look together felt as good to me as clay to a sculptor." As for the origin of the collection itself? "The idea behind my label was to create a brand that filled an aesthetic void in the market," said the designer. "I aim to marry vintage bohemian romanticism with modern urban minimalism."
Looks Like: One part hippie, one part hipster quirk with a dash of sophistication. Each season, Jones chooses a piece of music and work of literature as the focal points of the collection. Spring 2013 pays homage to Joan Baez's Bob Dylan tribute album, Any Day Now, and Joan Didion's essay, "Where the Kissing Never Stops" from the book Slouching Towards Bethlehem. The resulting graphic print dresses, asymmetric floral tops, shiny shorts suits and floaty maxi skirts nod to her muses' SoCal Seventies roots while still feeling very much in keeping with the way today's fashion-forward free spirits like to dress.
Sold At: The Gretchen Jones collection sells for $200 - $700 at Bird, Condor, Myrtle and online at Gretchen Jones.

graphic design by K Sarna

EDFF 2013 Breakfast

In keeping with their now annual tradition (heading into its twelfth season), the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation hosted a breakfast last Wednesday to welcome the newest winners to the fold. 

High atop the Museum of Art and Design at Robert restaurant in Columbus Circle, Prabal Gurung walked the crowd (which included EDFF judges Marylou Luther, Kim Hastreiter, Julie Gilhart, Ken Downing, Josh Peskowitz, Ruth Finley and Sally Singer) through his very moving rags to riches story.

Then 2013's crop of EDFF winners—each of whom received a $25,000 grant to put toward a New York Fashion Week show or presentation—were crowned.  The lucky recipients: TOME duo Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin for womenswear, Ian Velardi for menswear, Susan Woo for sustainable design and Deborah Pagani for accessories design.

There was a small selection of each designer's work on display in the glass-walled aerie, but I'm looking forward to experiencing the full measure of their talent during New York Fashion Week. Welcome to the Class of 2013, kids!

Happy Friday!

photo courtesy NYBG

1 = 1,000: Tao of Pooh

illustration by A. A. Milne

Informed Obsession: Emerson Sandals

I've been a big fan of designer Jackie Fraser-Swan's Emerson collection since I attended her Lincoln Center debut a few seasons back. I've also been a huge fan of Kork-Ease since high school, when I wore my Ava's (which we called Buffalo Sandals, for reasons I've never understood) til they fell off my feet. So I was beyond thrilled when Fraser-Swan collaborated with Kork-Ease for Emerson's spring 2013 outing, sending a trio of black-and-white beauties down the runway, which acted as a perfect counterpart to the collection's strong, graphic silhouettes. I was less thrilled to learn these covetable kicks were runway-only (cue sad face) but I wanted to share them with you anyway, since they're just so damn cool. (And maybe the parties involved will rethink their decision and release these styles for next season? Pretty please?) In the meantime, you can content yourself with off-the-rack versions of the styles shown at Emerson (Bette  and Hailey, respectively). Or follow my lead and go old-school with the original Ava, which is the perfect blend of form and function and will see you through summer in style (knee-highs optional).


graphic design by K Sarna

Introducing…Fleur du Mal

The Label: Fleur du Mal
Based In: New York City
Designed By: Jennifer Zuccarini, the social media loving co-founder of kinky-chic luxury lingerie line Kiki de Montparnasse and former design director of Victoria's Secret, who launched Fleur du Mal in late fall of last year as an online-only proposition. "We launched just five weeks ago," the Toronto-born, FIT-trained designer told TFI's Lauren David Peden just before the holidays. "I started working on the concept last year. The idea was to create a brand that evokes desire. When I discovered the name Fleur du Mal ("flower of evil"), it really represented a dichotomy I'm always drawn to—beauty with a bit of a dark side. The story behind Baudelaire is also very intriguing, we were using the theme "love hurts" for our campaign—a reference to his poetry. I see the brand as hopefully developing a culture and encompassing everything from music to art and design." To this end, many of the non-fashion items featured in the site's editorial images (from books and artwork to rugs and furniture) are also shoppable via the click of a mouse for a truly immersive online experience.
Looks Like: Chic, strong, provocative and feminine, Fleur du Mal ranges from seductive underpinnings to sleekly sensual ready-to-wear (heavy on the leather, chiffon and peek-a-boo details), designed, says Zuccarini, for "women and the men who love them" (wink, wink). Spring 2013 was loosely inspired by the Seventies cult film, Death Race 2000, which showcased what the designer calls "crazy-sexy Seventies silhouettes, floral appliqués and women in helmets." The resulting collection blends all of the above (sexy bodysuits, satin tie-back panties, lacy balconette bras, leather-bodice dresses and chiffon panel t-shirts), sans the helmets. Zuccarini  collaborated with the venerable Paris corset makers, Cadolle, for spring and has a few similar tricks up her sheery lacy sleeve for upcoming seasons.
Sold At: Fleur du Mal ranges from $45 - $350 for lingerie and $195 - $2,500 for collection and is available exclusively at Fleur du Mal's website.

graphic deisgn by K Sarna

TFI on Rue La La: Polly Mellen

So after two fashion-and-fun-filled years, my partnership with Rue La La's The (Style) Guide  blog has officially come to an end with this final post on Polly Mellen's talk with Fern Mallis at 92Y, which I attended just before the holidays. Thanks to all my Rue peeps, past and present, for making our collaboration so enjoyable.

Happy Friday!

photo courtesy Alvin Ailey

1 = 1,000: Jenny Holzer

image courtesy Jenny Holzer

Informed Obsession: Working Class Studio Journal

I've been partial to Moleskine notebooks since I began my career as a journalist more than two decades ago. But that changed the day I received a Working Class Studio journal from the good folks at shopSCAD. Created by artists from the Savannah College of Art and Design using soy ink on post-consumer waste recycled paper, these colorful lined notebooks are the perfect—and perfectly chic—companion, whether I'm interviewing designers, covering New York Fashion Week or jotting down notes for my Great American Novel (hey, a girl can dream, can't she?). They're about twice the size of the pocket Moleskine and feature a similar elastic band to keep them closed when tossed into the darkest recesses of my bag. But what I really love is that they cost just $10 bucks and boast a variety of graphic print covers, so I can change my notebook seasonally, as I do my wardrobe. And that's about as stylish as it gets.


graphic design by K Sarna

Introducing…ZuZu Kim

The Label: ZuZu Kim
Based In: New York City
Designed By: Christina "Zuzu" Kim, a self-taught classical pianist-turned-designer whose work is inspired by her passion for music. "The original idea came from designing dresses for my own piano performances and evolved into creating the ZuZu Kim brand," the designer said of her spring 2012 launch, dubbed "Concerto," which recast traditional musician's stage attire into ready-to-wear. "Fashion and music are so synonymous I don't think we can imagine one without the other." Kim, the well-traveled daughter of the former South Korean Ambassador to Saudi Arabia, studied fashion design and fiber at the School of Art Institute in Chicago and was head designer at Mary McFadden before stepping out on her own. The ZuZu Kim collection is aimed at a woman who is "fierce, independent, passionate and has a sense of humor," Kim tells TFI's Lauren David Peden. "She speaks to others without the need to speak—her inner joy and confidence speaks for her." That's certainly true of ZuZu Kim fan Olivia Culpo (aka, Miss Universe 2012, who also happens to be a talented cellist).
Looks Like: Sophisticated and classic with a slight edge. Fall 2012 was inspired by the second movement of the designer's favorite Mozart piano concerto—No.20 in D minor, "Romanzo"—and resulted in elegant tuxedo blouses, hooded ponchos and conductor jackets offset with lyrical scallop and lace details. The spring 2013 collection, "Coloratura" was inspired by a bright, saturated, feminine color palette and complex yet seemingly simple techniques, as can be seen in the half-sleeve tuxedo, graphic print separates and pretty asymmetrical dresses. Kim, who still studies piano repertoire at Juilliard weekly, recently partnered with VH1 Save the Music—the non-profit organization whose mission is to restore instrumental education programs in schools nationwide—to co-sponsor her upcoming New York Fashion Week presentation.
Sold At: The collection is available by special order online at ZuZu Kim.




graphic design by K Sarna

Happy MLK/Inauguration Day!

Happy Friday!

image by Keith Haring

1 = 1,000: Dreamers and Believers

Informed Obsession: Jil Sander Boots

The Queen of Clean is back! All Hail the Queen! That would be Jil Sander to you and me. After an eight year absence, the master of minimalism returned to her namesake label with the spring 2013 collection. But while the designer's other acolytes were busy swooning over her elegant dresses and color block sweaters, I was lusting after her two-tone leather boots with a sexy golden zipper that spirals around the leg from ankle to knee. They're a perfect complement to her spare silhouettes—and a perfect example of ebony and ivory, living in perfect harmony.


graphic design by K Sarna

Introducing…W118 by Walter Baker

The Label: W118 by Walter Baker
Based In: New York
Designed By: Walter Baker, who launched W118 in 2009 after the recession hit as a more affordable counterpart to his namesake collection. "W118 is a bit younger, more fun, definitely edgy," says the accountant-turned-designer. "It's a very print driven line that totally tells a story. Walter is a bit more refined, the beauty is in its simplicity." 
Looks Like: Fall 2012 had a Seventies/James Bond feel. "Our girl was tough and in charge," says Baker. Spring 2013 is all about fun in the sun, with bright colors and tons of artfully clashing textures and bold tropical prints. This season, says Baker, the W118 girl is "a jet setter, a force to be reckoned with!" With W118 (and the recent additions of bags and jewelry) she's got a wardrobe designed to take her seamlessly from desk to dinner—and beyond.
Sold At: W118 by Walter Baker sells for $300 and under at Macy's, Bloomingdale's, Saks Fifth Avenue, specialty stores nationwide and online at W118 by Walter Baker.





graphic by K Sarna

TFI on Rue La La: The Art of Giving

In honor of the recent holidays, I corralled a bunch of fashion insiders (designers, stylists, editors and the like) into dishing on the best gifts they've given and received. Hand knit sweaters, personalized scrapbooks and vintage Rolex, anyone?

Happy Friday!

image courtesy the Metropolitan Museum of Art