The Fashion Informer

Parsons Preview: Elizabeth Kennedy

Name: Elizabeth Kennedy

Age: 22

Hometown: Pennsylvania

Label: Elizabeth Kennedy

Aesthetic: Polished artistry. It’s romantic and feminine with an air of sophistication and refinement.

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
I've wanted to be a fashion designer since I was child.

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
Fashion is a creative expression, but also a cultural expression - it is an unspoken language. I am fascinated by what fashion says about our world and how we perceive it. Fashion is constant problem solving; like our society, it never stops evolving, and it never stops being exciting and challenging. Fashion is also a very intimate art - it affects the way we feel and behave - and I love having the ability to empower women through my clothing. The most rewarding aspect of the work I do is being able to make a woman feel beautiful, confident and inspired.

What inspired this particular collection and what inspires you in general?
My thesis was inspired by Greek mythology and the seductive and captivating power of the siren. The concepts of wet drapery and collapsed structure were incorporated to convey a tempestuous and oceanic aesthetic. Like many designers, I am constantly inspired by everything around me - art and architecture, literature, and film. I'm also continually inspired by my customer and her needs and desires.

Who do you envision as your ideal or target customer?
The age of my target customer is 35 - 50. She’s established and successful in her work. She lives in a metropolitan area and her lifestyle is very high-profile - her presence and sophistication are intoxicating, and her impeccable style and elegance stem from self awareness. She moves through life with passion and conviction.

What other designers do you admire?
Charles James and Vionnet.

Have you ever interned for any other designer/label and what did you learn ?
I interned at Zac Posen and loved the level of creativity in the studio. The ability to have such hands-on experience with every aspect of the creative process, from design to sample making, really results in a fantastic product.

At Banana Republic, I really learned how crucial it is to understand your customer and what she is willing to spend money for. Working at a company in the contemporary market, you learn how to get the most
bang for your buck, and how to get the most impactful and successful result, given whatever cost restrictions.

At Badgley Mischka, I worked in the Platinum Sportswear division so I really found the distinctions between the different divisions of the company particularly interesting. The translation of the couture evening aesthetic into day wear was very relevant to me as a designer who enjoys working in both evening and sportswear.

What's the most important lesson you learned at Parsons?
I've learned that first and foremost, I am an artist before anything else- what keeps me going every day is my love and passion for my craft, and it needs to be reflected in everything I do. I can't take myself too seriously, and I can't separate myself from the emotional aspect of my work.

What would you like to be doing in 10 years?
I've always hoped to someday design under my own label. In the meantime, I want to continue learning as much as I can about the industry. In the next couple of years, I hope to have the opportunity to gain experience in both the sportswear and evening wear markets, whether that is here in New York or overseas.

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn: Would you ever do Project Runway?
Probably not. I want my work to be known because it is beautiful, not because it was on a TV show.

Photos courtesy Elizabeth Kennedy

Presenting: Boaz Eli, Parsons Designer of the Year

Name: Boaz Eli

Age: 26

Hometown: Israel

Label: Boaz Eli (Parsons Designer of the Year, with co-winner, Michelle Ochs)

How would you describe the aesthetic of your senior collection?
In my senior collection I wanted to create clothes that are non-precious yet beautiful. Somewhere between romantic, dark and mysterious. I used soft materials such as washed silk charmeuse, very fine cashmere, washed silk twill and more, in a very moody color story of dark blues, blacks and a variety of nudes, which gave the clothes a certain softness and also a somber feeling.

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
I was always fashion conscious and was interested in design from an early age. But I think that only when I finished my commitment to my country in the Israeli army is when I really allowed myself to follow my dream.

Why fashion for you?
Even as a young boy my parents always made sure that my siblings and I had a creative outlet, but I also take pride in being not just an artist but also a very practical person. I think that as a fashion designer one has the ability to express himself as well as make a living and be an inspiration to others.

What inspired this collection and what inspires you in general?
In this collection I wanted to explore the relationship between beauty ideals in our society today and plastic surgery. I think that plastic surgery, much like fashion, is about transformation and reinventing one's self. As this phenomenon is becoming more widely acceptable and openly apparent, it is fascinating to explore from a social point of view. I am usually inspired by everything around me. I feel an obligation to bring forth social themes that interest me, I want to speak of the things that are valid to my generation and to create a statement about the mood of the time we live in.

Who is your target customer?
My customer is a young woman. She is fashion conscious but not a fashion victim. She knows what she likes and what she does not. She is someone who is intelligent and daring and would not shy away from a modern statement. My woman is body conscious and likes to show some skin but only when appropriate and only in a subtle, very understated, way.

What other designers do you admire?
I love the work of Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, he creates such beautiful and touching stories in his collections. Stefano Pilati at YSL creates amazing clothes that are current yet he is so in touch with the YSL tradition. Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, who makes us all look at fashion with new eyes.

Have you interned for any other designers and what did you learn there that will help in your own career?
In the past few years I interned at Isaac Mizrahi, Velasco Couture, J.Mendel and Style.com. I think that every internship was a valuable experience. I made contacts with various people from the industry, fabric suppliers, embroidery houses, knitting factories. I learned different fabric treatments and most of all, when you make good connections with people and give of yourself they will always make an effort in return.

What's the most important lesson you learned at Parsons?
It was always stressed at Parsons that I can get all the technical education I seek but that it is up to me to take initiative and get the things I want. Meaning there is so much the school can give you but you need to spend your four years wisely in order to really learn. Get internships, make connections, find sponsors, etc.

What would you like to be doing in 10 years?
For the next couple of years I would love to work for the companies I admire, and learn as much as I can. My dream is to one day be a creative director or a senior designer at a fashion house - maybe even my own.

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn: Would you ever do Project Runway?
I love Tim Gunn, but I would not do Project Runway. I think that TV is great for certain people, but I am not interested in becoming famous in that sense. I do not look for that kind of exposure and accolades, I just want to be creative and have the people around me appreciate that.

Photos © Keith Grieger

Parsons Preview: Christina Kwon

Name: Christina Kwon

Age: 28

Hometown: Korea

Label: Christina Kwon

How would you describe the aesthetic of your collection?
A poetic creation with a modern classical-beauty twist

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
I just knew when I was young. I feel I was born to fill this role.

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
Fashion has a reality and I can express my concepts through this vehicle. I am influenced by my love for fine art, too, which was my first major. This is all funneled into my creations.

What inspired this particular collection, and what inspires you in general?
Art: painting, architecture, sculpture, performance and everything around me. For my thesis collection, I was inspired by Ingres’ classic painting, The Bather of Valpincon, his painting depicting a woman's curves and lines. It appealed to my sense of design and flow of clothes to compliment these curves and interpret them into fashion for the women of today who [have] a strength of purpose and like to be an individual - especially the urban woman. My designs capture her edginess and take what could be urban sophistication and make it feminine and sexy.

Who do you envision as your ideal or target customer?
The professional woman who is urban, sophisticated and strong

What other designers do you admire?
Geoffrey Beene, Yves Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati, and Zac Posen. They have influenced me the most aesthetically with their concepts and designs.

What's the most important lesson you learned at Parsons?
Fashion is an expression and art form, but it can be made wearable!

What would you like to be doing in 10 years?
I am planning to launch my own line within five years or even earlier. However, I will definitely start out working for any company where I can learn the real fashion business. In 10 years? I want to meet at least one woman a day who is wearing my clothes.

Would you ever do Project Runway? 
No, I would not do Project Runway. It does not appeal to my artistic sense.

Photos courtesy Christina Kwon

Parsons Preview: Laura Zukaite

Name: Laura Zukaite

Age: 22

Hometown: Klaipeda, Lithuania

Label: Laura Zukaite

Aesthetic: My senior thesis was inspired by Italian architecture. It’s timeless beauty, femininity, classical-yet-ornate shapes, and quality.

Why fashion design?
The thing that fascinates me most about any form of design is problem solving. Finding the right solution to a problem, or, in most cases, finding the right compromise.

How long have you wanted to be a designer?
I’ve been exposed to many forms of art since I was a kid: since fifth grade I was sent to the Gymnasium of Arts back in Lithuania, where there were students who were studying music, and playing different types of instruments, and of course, there were the ones (including me) who were studying arts (painting, sculpture, ceramics, drawing, etc.). In the ninth grade I had my first fashion design class there - and I’ve been in love with it ever since.

What inspires you?
Most of the time I am inspired by imagery or what I see around me. Sometimes it is shapes, unusual color combinations, and most of the time it’s textural/patterns. Usually I take an inspiration - such as Italian architecture - and translate it into knit patterns.

Who is your ideal customer?
A women who is not defined by age, but rather by lifestyle. She is well traveled, cares for her body and wants to accentuate its lines - but never overexpose it. And that’s why knits are great for her. She never follows the trends and stays with her own personal style. She also knows quality, so she would rather invest into one great piece that she knows is going to be a great addition to her wardrobe, rather than many trendy items that she’d throw away the next season.

What other designers do you admire?
Jean Paul Gaultier for his sense of humor and staying consistent with who he is dressing. I also look up to Missoni for knits.

What labels have you interned with, and what did you learn?
My first internship was with a small family-owned resort-wear company called Sonali. I've stayed with them for a couple years and increased my experience in pretty much every aspect of small business: beginning with showroom sales and trade show participation and ending with design and technical aspects. I also had short-term internships with Isaac Mizrahi and Tuleh to help out with before-the-show madness.

I also did some freelance work for Kay Unger and Raz Keren, and worked at a yarn shop in Scarsdale every weekend. Working at the knitting store was a great experience on its own. Not only did I learn great customer skills, but was involved into picking the merchandise for the store and teaching classes. Through the connections I made at the shop I even got a chance to publish my designs in the leading country's knitting magazines: Vogue Knitting (Winter 2007), Interweave Knits (Fall/Winter 2006), as well as in “Lace Style,” a book series by Interweave Press.

What’s the greatest lesson you learned at Parsons?
It can be the most beautiful creation in the world….but can you sell it?

What do you hope to be doing in ten years?
After graduation I would like to work for a design company in order to build up my experience. And then somewhere along the way, I would love to have my own knitwear line.

Would you ever do Project Runway?
I would never do Project Runway because it is just another show and has no reflection on reality in the fashion industry.

Photos courtesy of Laura Zukaite

Parsons Preview: Michelle Yom

Name: Michelle Yom

Age: 22

Hometown: Long Island, New York

Label: Michelle Yom

Aesthetic: Ethereal, romantic and moody.

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
Originally in childhood, then I reaffirmed my love for design when I was in high school. 

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
Fashion is such a private and public medium.  I love the way it’s worked into the mundane rituals of life; getting dressed is something every woman does day after day.  The clothes capture memories as well.  A certain coat may remind you of the first snow of the year, or perhaps you wore that green dress the day you met your true love (the nostalgia you feel when you wear certain garments is a mysterious phenomenon).  It's also a public statement you make to those around you, an opportunity to visually express emotion and character.  It's because of the strong entanglement the art of fashion has with life in general that I chose it as the design path I wanted to explore. 

What inspired this particular collection, and what inspires you in general?
This collection was heavily influenced by my long time admiration for the artist Lee Bontecou.  Her voluminous paintings, use of metal objects and moody neutral colors were incorporated into my design process.  I am also very inspired by films, especially those that capture the elusive qualities of human emotion, the subtleties of life.  I'm also interested in the naiveté of childhood and the whimsy of fairy tales. 

Who is your ideal customer?
I imagine her to be a feminine woman with an easy demeanor; she's not one to get too caught up in creating an image of perfection (imperfection is far more interesting).  She's a quirky individual whose head is filled with marvelously fanciful notions.  She's an intelligent, curious, youthful and creative person.  

What other designers do you admire?
I would have to say Dries Van Noten.  Although I most definitely admire other designers as well, I am always amazed by his devotion to his vision and his unwavering confidence in creating what his woman wants.

Where have you interned and what did you learn there that will be helpful in your own career?
Most recently I've interned for Vera Wang and currently I’m interning for Mayle.  I learned so much about how fashion companies run, and how the clothes go from idea to the stores.  I learned so many things I wouldn't have learned in school, such as how to make embroidery layouts, how to solve problems in very creative ways, how to interact with factories and cutting rooms and so much more.  Very good lessons for my future career.

What's the most important lesson you learned at Parsons?
I've learned that criticism (and praise) should not be taken too seriously.  It can be detrimental to achieving your vision as a designer to be too swayed by negative or kind words. 

What would you like to be doing in two years?  Five years?  10 years?
Two-five years?  Hopefully working as an assistant to someone I truly admire.  In 10?  Perhaps I'll have my own boutique, filled with my clothes and things I love.  Do pop in and say hello if this dream comes true!

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn:  Would you ever do Project Runway?
Unfortunately, no.  I don't think I would enjoy standing on stage with a huge spotlight in my face [after] every challenge.  I also don't know if I would want to be on TV for all of America to watch and judge.

Photos © JunHo Yang

Parsons Preview: Jessica's Garb

Name: Jessica Lee Garb

Age: 22

Hometown: Born and raised in Malibu, California - not a mansion on the beach, a mobile home parked on a mountain.

Label: Jessica’s Garb

Aesthetic: I really just wanted to create something that expresses me as a person and as a designer. A little dark, a bit awkward, but in the end confident and chic. I wanted to create contradiction, and have an eclectic, vintage feel in the collection.

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
When I made a tux and a wedding gown out of my old socks for these two stuffed hippos I had as a kid.

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
I originally was planning to go to Parsons for fine art. Painting is a huge love in my life. But by the end of freshmen year I realized I was quite good at still lives but that was it. I had more fun putting together my outfit in the morning than actually going to class.

What inspired this particular collection, and what inspires you in general?
Jessica's Garb was a collaboration of the West meets East, which really just means my childhood growing up in Malibu than moving to Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I really wanted to explore the diversity between the two cities. The cleanliness of Cali-meets-the rebirth of Brooklyn. It gave me a chance to use unpredictable and contradictory fabrics and color stories. I used the more tailored menswear fabric next to distressed chiffon and jersey. I also hand-dyed a lot of my fabrics and burned most of the edges to hem the clothes, but I did this to give each piece a one-of-a-kind feel. Although it would be relatively easy to reproduce, I think it is important for clothes to look as though they could tell a story, even if they are new. It is a very personal inspiration, but I feel the best design is if you can connect with your ideas on an emotional level.

Who is your target customer?
I’m not going to lie, I design for myself and my friends. I just want a girl who has a love for the arts, creativity and being adventurous. I want her to be seen getting a martini uptown and going back to Brooklyn for a beer with the guys, all in the same outfit. She is not afraid to wear a piece from Jessica's Garb, with her grandmothers $20,000 pearl necklace, paired with her $2 Salvation Army heels. She just sees the beauty in everything, no matter what price point. A woman who is chic, but down-to-earth.

What other designers do you admire?
I’m vintage-crazed, so this list could be long: Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Emilio Pucci, Mary Quant, Erte, Givenchy, Cristobal Balenciaga, Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, Christian Dior, Claire McCardell, Bill Blass, Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, Catherine Malandrino, Marni, Anna Sui, DVF…and many more!

Where have you interned, and what did you learn there?
I have worked a Bill Blass couture for a year and half. I have also worked at Tuleh. Both places was a great experience. I was drawn to Bill Blass because of the history. I feel extremely privileged to be a part of the one of the oldest couture houses in America. Watching an inspiration come to life all in one office is amazing. They also have the best archives - and vintage clothing is a huge inspiration for me.

What's the most important lesson you learned at Parsons?
Stay true to yourself. Parsons tends to breed (although wonderful) a particular aesthetic in a designer. I was just never a fan of black. I would say even if you fit the Parson’s profile, just stick with it, and don't change to please anyone but yourself.

What would you like to be doing in 10 years?
Designing for Chloe. What can I say, you should always [aim] high. I would love to work for a stylist at a magazine or runway show. I would also like to design my own line. I’m pretty much just going to see what happens, I’m easy going and open to anything, really.

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn:  Would you ever do Project Runway?  
Nah, I don’t think so. But only because I don't think I can bear seeing myself on TV and, honestly, I hate to sew - especially after this year.

Photos courtesy of Jessica Lee Garb/Jessica's Garb

Parsons Preview: Michael Venker

Name: Michael Venker

Age: 25

Hometown: St. Paul, Minnesota

Label: Michael Venker

Aesthetic: The aesthetic I tried to achieve was one that was vibrant, but not in a cartoony kind of way. I explored a lot with prints and color, in order to try and escape the monotonous color palettes used in clothing today.

How long have you wanted to be a designer?
I knew I had to do something creative, I just never knew what form that need would take. My earliest memory of having some interest in apparel design would be when I was a young, I was obsessed with comics. I used to draw my favorite action heroes, but when I did so, I would always redesign their costumes.

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
Clothing is such a vital importance in the human experience. It is something that reflects on sociological, economical, religious and geographical elements. To be creatively involved in something that mirrors all of those issues, for me, supersedes any other creative expression.

What inspired this particular collection and what inspires you in general?
My inspiration for this collection was African-meets-Middle Eastern. I thought it was really fascinating how one culture hid so much of the body while another revealed it. To juxtapose those lines of thought was interesting to me. In general, though, anything can inspire me. Right now, I am interested in the concept of power, and how it dominates our lives.

Who is your target customer?
Someone who wants have a good time, and laughs a lot. My clothing isn't really form fitting, so it can appeal to a broad range of body types and ages, so it's more of an attitude thing. I think my customer works and plays hard, and has a blast doing both.

What other designers do you admire?
Rei Kawakubo is amazing, I love how she toys with clothing and its interaction with the body, creating powerful and exaggerated silhouettes. Also, I am in love with Nicolas Ghesquiere, he is a genius.

Have you ever interned for any other designer and what did you learn there that will be useful in your own career?
I have interned at Marc Jacobs, Helmut Lang, Zegna and Chad Lavigne, and the thing I learned at all of those places is that you are a cog in the machine in the beginning. I don't have any illusions about how my life will be, working fresh out of college.

What's the most important lesson you learned while at Parsons?
Persistence pays off.

What would you like to be doing in 10 years?
I want to have my own company, obviously, but I don't want to rush anything. I want to gain more knowledge about the business aspect of fashion before I put my own neck on the line. I also don't want my creativity to stop with fashion, I want my business to explore living spaces and music.

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn: Would you ever do Project Runway?
No, and that's not a reflection on my feelings toward Tim Gunn, but more so with what happens to people after they leave the bizarre world of reality TV. I think it would hurt my career in the long run, rather than help it. Also I wouldn't want to embarrass myself and have it played on syndication 'til the end of time.

Photo courtesy of Michael Venker

Parsons Preview: Mari Hong

Name: Mari (Hyung-Kyong) Hong

Age: 28

Hometown: South Korea

Label: Mari Hong

Aesthetic: Versatile, avant-garde minimalism.

How long have you wanted to be a designer?
I’ve always wanted to be a designer, ever since I was a very little girl. I was born into a family where both parents were already working in the fashion industry. I grew up in my parents’ company. It was my playground with mannequins, buttons and trims to keep me company. From a young age I always played with my mother’s clothes, turning them inside out and upside down. I used this idea of the oversized shapes and versatility to inspire my “Trees at Midnight” collection.

Tell me about your senior thesis collection.
“Trees at Midnight” is a representation of the long, arched strands of bark that reach towards the sky. It is about the experience of standing at the base of a champion Fir or a massive Bald Cypress and looking up as it grows and its arms twist and spiral above you. The night air sways the branches and through the movement of the leaves you catch a glimpse of a dark blue sky with just a hint of the pale moonlight.

“Trees at Midnight” is a romantic collection with its draped tops and jackets, luxurious knits that can flow or be ruched, voluminous skirts and pants, and dresses that twist, cling, and drape in all the right places. It is also a versatile collection in which pieces can be flipped, ruched and buttoned to create a completely new look.

The color palette reflects the natural, earthy tones of the trees and the sky. I chose a dark brown, brown and beige to represent [the trees’] bark and the dirt in which it is rooted. Shades of gray and the hint of a pale, dusty blue show the mood of the sky and night air. Fabrics played a significant part in describing the textures within this scene: Alpaca fur, pleated silk lining, cashmere-wool blend felt and a variety of knits.

Who is your target customer?
This collection is great for those who love to experiment and stylize their own outfits. Also, it is perfect for women who want to change their look throughout the day without having to go home and change clothes. Their attire can become a completely different outfit by simply adding a layer, tucking in a fold, or flipping a coat upside down. The clothes appeal to the stylish woman who loves luxurious fabrics but also has the strong, edgy attitude to wear asymmetrical garments. The collection is ideal for those working in the arts and entertainment industry where style prevails over conservatism.

What other designers do you admire?
I admire many designers. One of them is Jean Colonna. When I was studying in Paris last year I worked with him. He taught me the importance of seams in context to minimalism. He said that each seam must have a reason or it is otherwise garbage. That thought is still with me today. I am also a big fan of Jil Sander for her interesting fabrications and minimalism that focuses on amazing fit.

What’s the biggest lesson you learned while at Parsons?
The importance of time management when developing a collection. Through experimentation and hard work I was able to use my experience here and my time abroad to carry out my concept for senior year.

What do you hope to be doing, career-wise, in 10 years?
I aspire to be a senior designer/ creative director at a large, well-known company then to move on to presenting my own collection on the runway. I would love to have my own label hanging at Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman within the next ten years.

Would you ever do Project Runway?
I actually don’t know what Project Runway is.

Photos courtesy of Mari Hong

Parsons Preview: You-Niquely Organic by Jin-A Chang

Name: Jin-A Chang

Age: 24

Hometown: Seoul, Korea

Label: You-Niquely Organic

Motto: “Saving the World One Shopaholic at a Time.”

How would you describe the aesthetic of your collection?
Stylish, detailed, sophisticated yet youthful and flirty.
 
When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
It took me a while at first to really realize my deep desire to be a fashion designer. It was almost the end my sophomore year at Parsons. I've been slaving away for almost a year getting little to no sleep, living and breathing fashion, day in and day out. Oddly, the more I was exposed to fashion instead of becoming sick of it I secretly yearned for more....After realizing that, I knew fashion design wasn't just something I liked to do but a passion I couldn't quit. And soon after I felt so empowered that my desire to be a great designer was fixed in my heart.
 
Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
Wow…this is a hard question. I'm naturally attracted to all types of art and design. I feel the great thing about fashion is it incorporates [elements] of sculpture, painting and even photography, in terms of a clothing’s proportion and balance of weight, space and color.

Also, fashion isn't just about the physical appearance. When you see a great design it's an emotional experience that can't quite be described in words. We choose to live in a particular designer's clothes because of how [a garment] makes us feel. Wearing it makes you feel more confident and beautiful and that is something you can't put a price on. I think that is why we idolize designers sometimes, because their clothes have the power to move and inspire us just like any other form of art.
 
What inspired this particular collection, and what inspires you in general?
For my senior collection I combined my two loves: My genuine desire to help people and restore nature, and my love of creating. My passion for nature, humanity and fashion has inspired my collection and the direction of my career. I tried to make this line as eco-friendly as possible. I used natural fibers that have not undergone any chemical processes, which in turn help the lakes/streams (drinking water) and soils of the counties they are grown in. They are biodegradable and will not add to the overflowing piles of trash each year. My motto is "Saving the World One Shopaholic at a Time.” I feel that phrase captures my motive and gives it a touch of humor.

The fabrics were my main inspiration. I've been doing rigorous research on organic fabrics and eco-friendly processes and incorporated them into my collection. I've found many natural fibers that could be turned into fabrics like wood, soy, corn, different plants and such. The problem was getting my hands on it with the limited funding and resources that were available to me as a student. I had to resort to buying bed sheets that were made of high tech natural fibers like sasawashi, bamboo and vegetarian silk. There were other fabrics like lenpur (made of wood pulp), plastic-like fabric (made of corn), eco-spun (made of recycled bottle caps) and soy fabrics that were, unfortunately, harder to come by. Not only are sasawashi and bamboo eco-friendly, they have natural antibacterial and anti-deodorant qualities. Sasawashi also has the ability to regulate body temperature.

I also learned how to dye fabrics organically, because what’s the point of using eco-friendly fabric if it goes through harsh chemical dyes? I imported fustic wood and logwood from the Dominican Republic and used them to dye my collection.

Another reason I was inspired to do this collection was society's demand for fashionable organic clothing but the lack of supply. Ninety percent of the organic clothing out there are either basics or ugly and rough hemp/hippie clothes. The industry has not met the demand of eco-conscious people who want to look fashionable. 
 
The design and silhouette of my line is inspired, simply. by women. I always make sure my designs are wearable, sellable and stylish but not too fashion forward so it will appeal to majority of women. All of my pieces are flirty with a touch of sophistication. I also design clothes that my customer would feel beautiful and confident in.

Who do you envision as your ideal customer?
My ideal customer is in her 20's to 30's with a chic, casual sense of style . She is a city or suburban woman who is educated, smart, sophisticated, cultured and health-conscious with a strong concern for the environment. She lives a comfortable lifestyle and her approach to life is proactive. She knows what quality is and isn't frivolous with her money.
 
What other designers do you admire?
Charles James, Elsa Schiaparelli, Doo.Ri, Tracy Reese, Miuccia Prada, Anna Molinari for Blumarine, and many more!

Have you interned for any other designers and what did you learn that will serve you in your own career?
I've interned for Vera Wang, Barry Brickens, freelanced at Tracy Reese, was an assistant pattern maker at U&I Jeans and worked as a shirt designer for Central Park West. I've learned useful lessons about ethics rather than about fashion or the industry. I will not go into detail about each company and their ethical practices but I will say I never want to become a designer with a God complex who thinks I'm better than anyone. I will treat everyone with kindness and the respect they deserve. It creates a better work environment and, in turn, the employees will work harder, be more productive and want to stick around longer. All in all everyone will be happier, which is essential to a healthy life. That is one BIG lesson I've learned while working and I will carry that with me throughout my life.  Also. you never know who you’re going to meet or offend and who can make or break your career...so I say just be nice!
 
What's the greatest or most important lesson you learned during your time at Parsons?
TIME MANAGEMENT! No doubt about it. No matter how much you plan and time everything, no matter what it is…it's going to take longggger than you think. No procrastinating!
 
What would you like to be doing in 2 years? 5 years? 10 years?
After I graduate I plan to work in the industry as a designer but I will also be working on my own collection that is dedicated to sustainability. Working in the industry, no matter who or what company I work for, will give me much needed insight in the business aspect of fashion, marketing/promotions and all the other essential parts of running a successful company. I plan to soak up everything I see and experience, the good and the bad, to know what to do and what NOT to do. As I work full time I will design small and cohesive collection each season and produce them in small amounts in New York. That way I will be able to control quality and distribution. I will use this time to market my brand and get my name out there and sell my clothes online. Once I get a good group of clientele (hopefully in two years) I will expand my collection and work part time or freelance. If I get enough demand and clients (year five) I will try and get an investor and I will commit myself fully to my venture, nurturing and building up my company. In 10 years from now I hope to have a well established and well-known eco-friendly fashion company.
 
Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn: Would you ever do Project Runway?
I would love to do Project Runway! I just feel the exposure would be phenomenal and would help me greatly in marketing myself and my brand. I work great under pressure so I think I could go pretty far in the competition but I would design more editorial looks rather then very wearable designs.

Photos courtesy of Jin-A Chang/You-Niquely Organic

Parsons Preview: Todo by Melissa Chung

Name: Melissa Chung

Age: 26

Hometown: My parents are from the Caribbean, but I grew up in New Jersey.

Label: Todo. It means everything in Spanish.

How would you describe the aesthetic of your senior collection?
A feminine twist on futuristic clothing. A juxtaposition of the natural and the industrial through the use of soft, neutral-colored fabrics and metal hardware.

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
I wouldn’t say I was always interested “fashion”, but I was always interested in clothing. I remember wearing two different colored shoes to school when I was a little kid. I was very shy but I always used what I was wearing to express what I wasn’t saying. When I graduated from high school, I was pretty sure I wanted to study fashion but I was discouraged by people who kept telling me how difficult and cruel the industry is. While I was studying graphic and product design at Carnegie Mellon, I took a summer course at Parsons and that’s when I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer.

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
Whenever I am inspired by anything - whether it’s music, artwork, or a simple found object - I immediately begin thinking about clothing. It is as if my brain automatically translates what I’m seeing or hearing into a silhouette, seam lines, a texture for a fabric or a print design. I also think fashion is the perfect medium for expression. It transcends cultural and language barriers and whatever your statement is, it's always apparent.

What inspired this particular collection, and what inspires you in general?
I was inspired by the frustration I saw women experience while trying on clothes at the boutique I worked at. When clothing doesn’t fit correctly, we have a tendency to blame our own bodies and think that our hips or our bust are too big or too small. But the truth is, whether you are trying on a garment sized 0 or sized 12, the proportions of it are based on a fit model who has the designer’s ideal body type. Despite the fact that fashion has evolved so much for women, we are still trying to mold our bodies into someone else’s ideal. I wanted to reverse this bad habit and I begin thinking of ways to design clothing that allows the wearer to mold the garment around her own body instead.

In general, I am inspired by the functionality of small everyday things. One of my favorite places to go for inspiration is the hardware store. I love looking at tools and gadgets and understanding how they work. My education in graphic and product design has also greatly influenced me. Understanding how people use things and user testing was a big part of the design process in order to design a product that was ergonomic or user friendly. I still apply that method when I design clothing. I want my clothing to make sense and fulfill a need for my customer.

Who do you envision as your ideal or target customer?
My ideal customer is a woman who looks to the future. She doesn’t look back to history with nostalgia. She wants to move forward in life and continuously grow and evolve as a person. She’s very self-aware, confident and independent. She wants to explore every part of the earth, and as soon as it’s available and affordable to the average person, explore outer space.

What other designers do you admire?
I really admire designers like Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Hussein Chalayan. They are constantly exploring new mediums that can be used for clothing and new ways of constructing garments to fit the body. From the past, I admire designers like Claire McCardell and Bonnie Cashin. They created around a woman’s body and viewed designing clothes as finding solutions to everyday problems. They were innovative and their clothing was practical and lighthearted.

What other designers or labels have you interned with, and what lessons did you learn there that might help your own career?
I was really lucky and had two great internship experiences. The first was for Alice and Trixie, a small contemporary women’s wear company. I was running all over the garment district getting swatches, picking up fabric and I even helped make some of their samples. The two designers I worked under were always very appreciative of my efforts. They made me feel like I was part of the team and that my work was worth something. I always keep them mind when I think about how I will treat my employees in the future.

The second internship was with Original Penguin which is a fairly large sportswear company. During this time I really saw how many people it took to simply fill a few small stores full of good quality, well-designed clothes. From concept development to design to sourcing materials, dozens of people are involved. You really have to trust those you work with to follow through, which makes me think I need to really choose carefully who I decide to go into business with in the future.

What's the most important lesson you learned during your time at Parsons?
I learned that everyone is in the fashion industry for a different reason. Some people are in it because they truly love designing, others are in it for the glamour or fame. You can’t let other people’s motives and attitudes influence or distract you.

What would you like to be doing in 2 years? 5 years? 10 years?
In two years, I would like to be working for a company as a design assistant or a designer and learning as much as I can about the industry. I would also like to have a website through which I could sell items such as T-shirts or undergarments with original prints designed and silk-screened by myself and other designers. In five years, I definitely want to be working as a designer either for one company or freelance. At this point I would also like the website to be an online boutique offering an array of clothing by many designers. Another goal is to be fluent in Mandarin, Cantonese and Japanese so that I can travel to China, Hong Kong, and Japan for work. In ten years, I would like to have my own small line and own a boutique in New York City or in Brooklyn that is extension of the website and functions as a rotating design collective.

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn: Would you ever do Project Runway? Be honest!
I would never do Project Runway. I am too shy to ever consent to being on television. Also, Project Runway is primarily a reality show that must evoke drama among the participants for ratings. I definitely believe that past participants were kept on the show not because they were better designers, but because they created more drama. I don’t believe any publicity is necessarily good publicity. Although I like my clothing to be lighthearted and fun, I want to be taken seriously as a designer. If was suddenly in the public eye, I would like to know that its because my hard work and designs earned it, not simply because I was on TV.

Photos courtesy of Melissa Chung/Todo

Parsons Preview: Lana Chun

Name:  Lana Chun

Age:  23

Hometown:  Sarasota, Florida

Label: TBD in the near future
 
How would you describe the aesthetic of your senior collection?
Based upon my own interpretation of Native American Art, I wanted to present intricate yet wearable pieces using nothing but synthetic materials - power nets, lycra and nylon blends - which are normally used for swimwear, undergarments, etc. My main focus was to treat these fabrics in order to create different surfaces and textures by ruching, pleating, and piping. Ultimately, I just wanted to show an evening wear collection that became alive once worn: Wearable art. 

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
The moment I laid eyes on my aunt's fashion illustrations when I was 10.

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?  
Illustration will always remain my first true love.  It actually plays a big part in my own designs.  I'm always inspired by what I can come up with on paper, rather than what I see in magazines or on television.

Who do you envision as your ideal or target customer?
Artists of all genres.

What other designers do you admire?
Paul Poiret

What's the most important lesson you learned during your time at Parsons?
Time management is key.

What would you like to be doing in 10 years? 
Getting paid to do what I love!

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn:  Would you ever do Project Runway? (Be honest!)
No, my crippling shyness would probably be an issue in front of the camera.

Photos courtesy of Lana Chun

Parsons Preview: Jessica Brooke

Name: Jessica Brooke Abraham

Age: 21

Hometown: Philadelphia’s Main Line

Label: Jessica Brooke

How would you describe the aesthetic of your senior collection?
The aesthetic of my line is comfortable glamour that is ultra feminine with a sporty edge. I like to create very easy to wear, effortless clothes with quirky details.

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
I always knew I would have a creative life. My mother is a painter and I got my eye for color, shape and texture from her. My fascination with image and style progressed into my decision to be a fashion designer while I was in high school.

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
Fashion just seemed like a natural choice for me. Well, and the fact that I’m tone deaf and couldn’t figure out how to work a camera.

What inspired this particular collection, and what inspires you in general?
A beach in some exotic faraway fictional land inspired this resort collection. There were subtle influences from India and Bo Derek in "10." I live to be inspired; some things I look to for inspiration are movies, art exhibits and junk from flea markets and thrift shops.

Who is your target customer?
My ideal customer is a fun, flirty, party girl. I always design with my friends and myself in mind. I would never design something that I wouldn’t actually wear.

What other designers do you admire?
Designers that have influenced my work are Vionnet, Claire McCardell and Norma Kamali.

Have you interned for any designers and, if so, did they teach you anything that will carry over into your own career?
I interned for Three as Four for a while. Working with them taught me how to actually make a collection and see it through to production. I learned so much from them - how to work as a team with varying strong personalities and how to stay productive in a chaotic, high-stress environment. I also sold my line at the Young Designer Market in Nolita and learned how to be a self-starter and listen to what my customers wanted to wear.

What's the most important lesson you learned while at Parsons?
Patience! I never learned the value of patience until studying fashion design.

What would you like to be doing in 10 years?
I would love to have my own line of clothes at some point. Hopefully sooner than later. I don’t want to put a timeline on it. Until then I would like to get some experience working for someone like Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg or Donna Karan.

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn:  Would you ever do “Project Runway”? Be honest!
No, I would prefer not to take that avenue. I don’t think it would satisfy my career goals.

Photos courtesy of Jessica Brooke

Parsons Preview: Carly Cushnie

The Fashion Informer was privileged to be invited to sit on the Parsons Senior Thesis Review panel last week, an annual event in which a group of journalists, buyers, designers, publicists, photographers, stylists and other fashion industry insiders preview the final collections by the school’s graduating fashion students and offer constructive criticism and career and design advice, prior to the gala runway show that’s taking place on Monday, April 30th.

Our fellow panelists included designers Narciso Rodriguez and Reed Krakoff of Coach, buyers Linda Fargo and Roopal Patel from Bergdorf Goodman, Stephane Houy-Towner of the Met Museum’s Costume Institute, writers from WWD, and other industry movers-and-shakers. We can only imagine how nerve-wracking it must have been for the students to get up, one by one, and present their collection to the distinguished panel. But present they did, and we’re thrilled to report that this year’s crop of 125 fledgling couturiers is by far the strongest and most talented we’ve seen emerge from Parsons.

To honor their entry into the industry, The Fashion Informer will be presenting a Parsons Preview series this week and next, to introduce the rest of the world to a few of these truly gifted young'uns.

First up, Carly Cushnie, a Brit who wowed the crowd with her sophisticated separates and polished presentation.

Name: Carly Cushnie

Age: 23

Hometown: London, England

Label: Carly Cushnie

How would you describe the aesthetic of your senior collection?
My aesthetic in general is quite architectural and I do always try to accentuate and highlight the female body in a subtle, delicate way. The mixing of fabrics, shapes, positive and negative space will continue to be a theme in my collections.

When did you first know you wanted to be a designer?
This is what I have always wanted to do. For me there wasn’t really any other option. I used to design clothes as a child - I was always drawing clothes every chance I had. Even during high school, my art A Level pieces were all fashion based. I made several sculptural dresses out industrial materials such as rubber tubing, chicken wire and Plexiglas.

Why fashion for you and not some other form of creative expression?
It wasn’t so much a creative expression but more about the fact that I just wanted to make great clothes.

What inspired this particular collection, and what inspires you in general?
This collection evolved from two different inspirations. The first was the photographer Paul Strand and his black images of the Southwest during the 1930s. And the second was the architect John Pawson and the monastery that he designed in the Czech Republic.

Who is your target customer?
My customer is a woman who appreciates luxurious fabrics, clean architectural lines and feminine silhouettes.

What other designers do you admire?
I have always loved Hubert Givenchy and I really admire what Ricardo Tisci is doing for Givenchy at the moment. I also admire Narciso Rodriguez and Francisco Costa.

What's the most important lesson you learned while at Parsons?
Don’t ever let someone tell you can’t do it or it can’t be made.

What would you like to be doing in 10 years?
Well, I would definitely like to eventually have my own line and within 10 years I would hope that was the case. For now, unless some utterly amazing sponsor/mentor came along to produce my collection, I see myself working as designer for a really great fashion house until I can establish my own line

Lastly, in honor of Tim Gunn:  Would you ever do “Project Runway”? Be honest!
For one, as Parsons students we are not allowed on “Project Runway” because we would apparently have an unfair advantage. But even aside from that issue, I definitely would not go on the show. My opinion has nothing to do with Tim Gunn but I do believe in the ‘reality show jinx.’ Aside from a few people on “American Idol,” most contestants on these shows never end up making a good name for themselves or even doing anything of any value. Look at “America’s Next Top Model”: you don’t see those girls fronting any major fashion campaigns. Plus, if I had wanted to be on TV I would have become an actress. I can’t imagine being followed constantly by a camera. Also, I don’t think the show really displays the potential a contestant has as a designer since a lot of the challenges have no relevance. To be honest, I try not to watch the show, it makes me cringe.

Photos courtesy of Carly Cushnie