It's the last day of the spring shows and, being the practical-minded gal that I am, I opt to skip Ralph Lauren to stay home and work, as Calvin Klein isn't till 3pm, which would leave me with four hours to kill between shows. Nuts to that. The RL folks are kind enough to send over images of the Spanish-influenced collection afterwards, which is pretty if a tad literal, what with all the gilded toreador jackets, serapes and flirty flamenco skirts.
Calvin Klein, on the other hand, faces defiantly forward with designer Francisco Costa looking to images of urban feminine beauty. Placing the emphasis firmly on the bust and waist, the designer fashions black mesh crepe, basket weave silk gazar and moiré into extremely modern, extremely figure-flattering dresses, and utilizes ivory technical viscose to create a series of structured-yet-sensual suits and coats, all of which pay homage to a woman's natural curves. (Perhaps bodacious CK spokesmodel Lara Stone is having an effect on Francisco's work?) Whatever his muse, front row guests Emma Stone, Diane Kruger and Amy Adams clearly like what they see, as do I.
Then it's a quick subway ride uptown to Slow and Steady Wins the Race, which is presenting its conceptual accessories collection via an installation at the Museum of Art and Design in Columbus Circle. Along with updates of their classic BagShoe collection (featuring backpack webbing/buckled sandals and net mesh platforms), the prefers-to-be-anonymous designer offers several cool new clear kicks (I especially like a slingback with a Perspex wedge carved to resemble a cut-glass goblet, and a series of black-and-white striped flatforms). And the red-and-ivory canvas Boat Tote Wedge instantly tops my list of spring must-haves.
JF & Son is showing alongside SSWTR (as part of their ongoing design residency at the Museum of Art and Design), and I'm loving the delicate new prints and the holographic metallic details that add a bit of edge to their otherwise spare silhouettes.
On my way out of the museum, I stumble upon the Loot: MAD About Jewelry show on the second floor and am truly delighted to discover a wealth of heretofore unknown European designers (including Cinnamon Lee, Katherine Richmond and Jeremy May of Little Fly) whose work is pretty damn amazing. More on which later.
Closing out New York Fashion Week is Cynthia Rowley, who presents her spring 2013 collection in a former office building (and soon-to-be hotel) in the Financial District, where Proenza Schouler showed their collection last night. I take the C downtown and, after a few wrong turns, manage to find my way to the Beekman Street venue, which is spectacular in its decrepitude (think: crumbling concrete, flaking paint and decaying glamour, all backlit with colorful jelled spotlights and an artfully composed video installation). Cynthia tells me that upon discovering the space last January, she'd immediately imagined a party amid all the decay, complete with girls in burnished sequined shorts, magnified paisley dresses, camo brocade bombers and rusted confetti tops, with real confetti swirling down from the ninth floor, where a look book shoot is happening in real time, and is being livestreamed above the deteriorating arches on the ground floor. Other inventive sartorial touches include the gold flask bracelets, studded stingray sandals and oversized baller caps perched high on the heads of adorable frizzy-haired models. I run into the designer's kids on the top floor, and her daughter Kit and I have a quick convo about sharks in Montauk (long story) before I head back down to say my farewells.
It's a fittingly fun, New York-centric ending to a week that included some 59 shows and events. And with that, my Fashion Week is a wrap. See you next season!